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I'm sure there must be a good explaination, but can someone please tell me why the rear spring and tie rod end have to be disconnected in order to remove the rear bearing hub assembly? I'm only asking since all the shop manuals list this as a procedure but I fail to see the reason :confused: One shop manual even instructs you to remove the half shaft as well? Thanks for any help and I would appreciate any tips from someone who has done this repair on a base '86 Coupe.
They don't, it just makes it easier to get the torx bolts on the back of the hub out. I did it without taking anything off except the wheel and the rotor/caliper. :cheers:
They don't, it just makes it easier to get the torx bolts on the back of the hub out. I did it without taking anything off except the wheel and the rotor/caliper. :cheers:
Thanks Wheelman, I was hoping that was the case. That means I will only need a twelve pack to get through the repair :D
Once just removing the wheel and disc/caliper. skill factor = 2, hassle factor = 8
Once by pulling the knuckle off. skill factor = 3, hassle factor = 3
I strongly recommend taking the time to pull the three additional bolts (camber strut, 2 control arms) it is so much easier than trying to pull the torx off blind.
Just be sure to use GOOD sharp Torx bit. You will have to rotate the hub to get to all the Torx bolts. Using a 1/2" drive with a swivel joint makes it a pretty easy job to get good torque on the bolts.
I would fathom a guess here that the manuals tell you to remove all that stuff because it is sometimes easier in time for a pro with good tools to do it that way.
It provides the technician with a good time to inspect any other wearable parts for replacement as well.
Also, and important, could be the accuracy of torquing the bolts back down. With extensions and/or universals one must add some extra torque value. Only a guess though.
The only thing I removed to replace the rear hub was the caliper to give myself a little more room. If I ever have to do it again I might just remove everything though to make it that much easier.
The only thing I removed to replace the rear hub was the caliper to give myself a little more room. If I ever have to do it again I might just remove everything though to make it that much easier.
The last thing I wanted to do was strip the Torx bolt on the rear bearing because of not having a clean shot at it. Believe me, removing the strut rods and control arm along with the half shaft makes it much easier. I pulled the entire hub out and cleaned it up using a wire wheel.
I did my rear wheel bearings with a torx bit and a really long extension. Didn't remove anything except the wheel. Of course, you have to elevate the rear end of the car to rotate the half-shaft to gain access to the bolts.
I know it is possible to replace the bearings without pulling the half shaft. But if the bearings are gone then the U-Joints need to be replaced also and this is a great time to do it. Pulling the shafts as noted above give you direct access to the Torx bolts. $.02