LT1 92 bell housing removal question
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Lake Wylie SC
LT1 92 bell housing removal question
Here is a picture of my bell housing with an allen wrench inserted into the "special locking nut" (according to my Helms) that secures the ball stud. I'm having trouble loosening this locking nut. Which way does it turn to loosen? I've put easily 150lbs-ft of torque in both directions.
I need to loosen it so I can remove the bell housing. Any hints?
I need to loosen it so I can remove the bell housing. Any hints?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
Re: LT1 92 bell housing removal question (Strick)
I would think lefty loosy. I don't see why it would be right handed threads.
hit it with some PB Blaster or WD40... I think the bell housing is aluminum or magnesium... either way, easy to strip!!!!
hit it with some PB Blaster or WD40... I think the bell housing is aluminum or magnesium... either way, easy to strip!!!!
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,212
Likes: 10
From: Sun City West Az
Re: LT1 92 bell housing removal question (bogus)
Hey Tom,
Looking at the Helms, that ball stud screws into the bell housing from the clutch side. So since you are on the "other side" on the stud, it would seem that you want to turn that devil clockwise to unscrew it. Hopefully I'm applying "common sense". :D
[Modified by ittlfly, 4:27 PM 1/30/2004]
Looking at the Helms, that ball stud screws into the bell housing from the clutch side. So since you are on the "other side" on the stud, it would seem that you want to turn that devil clockwise to unscrew it. Hopefully I'm applying "common sense". :D
[Modified by ittlfly, 4:27 PM 1/30/2004]
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Lake Wylie SC
Re: LT1 92 bell housing removal question (ittlfly)
My Helms shows the "locking nut" comes out on the tranny side. I agree that the stud itself would turn clockwise from the tranny side to take out from inside the bell housing. Before I really put the torque to it, I'd like to know if counter clockwise would remove the locking nut (not the stud) from the tranny side. This is crazy. I feel "Murphy" is nearby :skep:
After rereading and studing the Helms Book, I think the locking nut is already out and I need to turn it clockwise. I just have to find a 1/2 drive 12mm allen socket. My 12mm hex wrench started to bend. I'll look at it again, tomorrow. I'm tired.
[Modified by Strick, 9:32 PM 1/30/2004]
After rereading and studing the Helms Book, I think the locking nut is already out and I need to turn it clockwise. I just have to find a 1/2 drive 12mm allen socket. My 12mm hex wrench started to bend. I'll look at it again, tomorrow. I'm tired.
[Modified by Strick, 9:32 PM 1/30/2004]
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,212
Likes: 10
From: Sun City West Az
Re: LT1 92 bell housing removal question (Strick)
At looking at your posted picture, it appears that the lock nut has been removed. It must act like the old poly locks that kept solid lifters adjusted. In this case, keeping the stud from backing out of the housing.
Thread Starter
Race Director
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From: Lake Wylie SC
Re: LT1 92 bell housing removal question (ittlfly)
Thanks Steve, I'm going with the torque in the clockwise direction in the morning. If you see a large cloud to the east around 7am your time, it's probably me going nuclear, if things don't go well. I do agree with your poly lock theory. The more I look at it the more I'm sure that's what it is. :thumbs:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,215
Likes: 6
From: Tampa Florida
Re: LT1 92 bell housing removal question (Strick)
It is clockwise!
Having had my ZF out 3 times...there may be a small locking 'screw' that screws in the normal direction, but it is very small.
The large one you are removing it the actually stud that screws into the inside of the housing-it is the ball stud that the fork rides on. I don't end up unscrewing it completely actually...just enough to let the fork disengaged from the throw out bearing.
Also a note...I use a hammer to tap the allen wrench...seems that magnesium sticks a bit.
Having had my ZF out 3 times...there may be a small locking 'screw' that screws in the normal direction, but it is very small.
The large one you are removing it the actually stud that screws into the inside of the housing-it is the ball stud that the fork rides on. I don't end up unscrewing it completely actually...just enough to let the fork disengaged from the throw out bearing.
Also a note...I use a hammer to tap the allen wrench...seems that magnesium sticks a bit.
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Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Detroit MI
Re: LT1 92 bell housing removal question (Strick)
Why do u want to remove the ball stud?
If you want to remove the fork from the clutch pressure
plate/throw bearing just wiggle it around.
Also, like it was said before, you are missing the locking
stud. You need to replace it or else you ball stud will get
loose (if you ever manage to get it off) and your fork will move out and grind the outer portion of your pressure plate.
I think the last person who worked on your clutch lost the
lock nut and in return over tightened the ball stud to
compensate for the missing lock nut.
If I remember correctly, the ball stud is reverse threading
and the lock nut is normal threaded. Remove ball stud clockwise direction from allen wrench side.
Make sure you torque to spec, I don't remember the numbers off
hand for each.
If you want to remove the fork from the clutch pressure
plate/throw bearing just wiggle it around.
Also, like it was said before, you are missing the locking
stud. You need to replace it or else you ball stud will get
loose (if you ever manage to get it off) and your fork will move out and grind the outer portion of your pressure plate.
I think the last person who worked on your clutch lost the
lock nut and in return over tightened the ball stud to
compensate for the missing lock nut.
If I remember correctly, the ball stud is reverse threading
and the lock nut is normal threaded. Remove ball stud clockwise direction from allen wrench side.
Make sure you torque to spec, I don't remember the numbers off
hand for each.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Lake Wylie SC
Re: LT1 92 bell housing removal question (djhatz)
djhatz, thanks for the reply. Yep, the last guy to work on this was a true "Shade tree mechcanic" I found broken studs, torn boots on the tranny, and improperly routed plug wires to name a few finds. His attention to detail was poor. Geeze, I hope he didn't use JB Weld or something like that in there. I'm determined to put this Vette back into proper condition. I hope I don't have to buy another bell housing because of this. :cheers:
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Lake Wylie SC
Re: LT1 92 bell housing removal question (ittlfly)
Well, the score is( Corvette 1 & Me 0.) I put the torque to it and before it would give the hex hole completely stripped. I think I'll keep my distance from it for a while. I don't have a clue how to get the bell housing off now. I guess I'll start looking for another bell housing and get the torches out. F#*kin Murphy Strikes again. :cuss :cuss :cuss :cuss :cuss
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Detroit MI
Re: LT1 92 bell housing removal question (Strick)
I have a spare bell housing in the my garage. Ill snap a few pics of it for you if you are interested/get the part# off it if youd like. I think its off a 92. I think they are all the same from 91-96 though. Fork/ballstud/dust shield are there also but the locking nut is not included.
By the way, the bell housing should remove for the clutch if you angle the fork properly and jiggle it.
[Modified by djhatz, 8:21 PM 1/31/2004]
By the way, the bell housing should remove for the clutch if you angle the fork properly and jiggle it.
[Modified by djhatz, 8:21 PM 1/31/2004]
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Lake Wylie SC
Re: LT1 92 bell housing removal question (djhatz)
Hi djhatz, I finally had to drill the stud out. I used a 1/2" bit and it finally broke off inside. Then the bell housing came off without a problem. Now to get the rest of the stud out. It's a 1 1/8 socket and so far with my weakazz air drive 1/2" it still won't loosen. We're going to take it to my son's Tech College and put the professor on the spot.
Now to the flywheel questions (see new topic)
[Modified by Strick, 6:17 PM 1/31/2004]
Now to the flywheel questions (see new topic)
[Modified by Strick, 6:17 PM 1/31/2004]
