Can anyone with knowledge tell me how to get the drivers side plugs changed out on my 1993? Too many things in the way & I am not sure what has to come off to get to the distributor hook-ups. Thanks. Please e-mail to Secrt007Agt @bellsouth.net :nopity :party: FLASH, I THINK I HAVE IT FIGURED OUT! IT LOOKS LIKE THE GUYS SUGGESTING COMING UP FROM BELOW WIN. THANKS TO ALL :flag


[Modified by secrt0007agt, 1:22 AM 2/6/2004]

 

Here's a few threads on it. FYI, you can use the Search feature to access the archives (which is what I did):
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=147655
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=347785
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=191488

 

Unbolt and move the ASR assy out of the way. Don't disconnect any of the cables. Once the ASR is out of the way you'll have good access to all 4 plugs. If you think the D/S is difficult, the #8 plug (rear of engine on pass side) is the toughest. It helps to have an assortment of sockets, ratchets, extensions and universal adapters - I mix-matched combinations of tools until I hit upon an arrangement that fit and gave leverage.

 

I found the easiest way is to go to your local specialized Vette Shop, pull into bay, leave keys in ignition, go read old fishing mags in waiting room and 2 hours later ....... bend over. LOL

 

ah, that might be an easy way.. but i bet its more painful.. :eek:
besides, its fun tinkering with that stuff.


[Modified by NightRyder, 9:28 PM 2/4/2004]

 

Good one! And welcome new member. Feel free to go over to general discussion and introduce yourself.l

 

If all else fails, the # 7 plug is a piece of cake from underneath. That's if you have the car in the air anyway. :D

 

Also, remove the center section of the wheel well. Gives you much better access to the plugs. I used a short section of fuel line stuck over the end of the plug to hold on to while starting to thread the new plugs on. Makes it easier to get them started. :cheers:

 

I did it recently on my 93. Do what is said above about removing the center wheel well section. Also, remove the belt and the belt tensioner. With these parts out of the way, you can see down to the distributor. You still need to wrench your hand down there, but it is a lot easier. I did not move the ARS at all. Remove the rear section of the wheel well to gain access to the plugs. Use long extensions and patience. It took me about 2 hours to do that side and 2 to do the passenger side. Now that I know what I am doing, maybe 3 hours to do the whole tune up. I got these tips from other members, and they really worked for me. That is why I am passing them along to you!
:smash:
:cheers:

 

I feel bad for you LT1 guys when it comes to this. When I do my plugs, I have to actually remove the suspension dust guard panel on the pass side to get to the even plugs. It usually takes me up 20 minutes if I'm doing wires too. :)
I guess its kharma payback for the extra hp.

Chris

 

I'm glad I have a L-98 remove air conditioner bracket and 20 minutes to change plugs and another 30 minutes to change Dist cap and plug wires. :party:

 

I bought a 3/8 drive ratchet with a hinged handle at Harbor Freight Tools. Makes the job a whole lot easier. :flag

 

All i have to say is use a gear rachet and get a pair of mechanics gloves.

 

i got all 8 from the top on my 93'. the first time i changed them it took me just under 2 hours. the only parts i removed were the drivers side dust sheild, and ASR cover. the #1 plug was the hardest for me.

damn im going to miss my 89'... plug swaps were done in less than a half hour!

 

A couple things to remember:

Its aluminum so let it completely cool, preferably over night is great. Otherwise you risk damage.

Use anti-seize compound on your plugs.

Do the passenger side first. Its the easiest to get to except #7. This way you can get to the plugs with a torque wrench and get the feel for how much is needed. That way when you get to the plugs that I found impossible to get the torque wrench on, you have a pretty good feel for how much to tighten. Torque as many as you can get to. Proper heat dissapation is important and only comes from proper torque.

The #7 plug you'll need to use a standard plug socket with a open end wrench. That's about all the room you have there. Be careful there is a sensor there with a blue plastic cover that can be easily damaged.

If your doing wires too, then you'll need to remove the belt and the tensioner. Don't worry about re-installing the tensioner, it has a large pin on it so its keyed and only goes back on one way. Your practically laying over the engine to get to it. Also a copy of the service manual is real helpful when routing the wires. That is probably the most mind bending part.

Give yourself plenty of time. The first time it takes a little longer.

Accessing the right side as the others have said remove the wheel well liners both rear and middle. The top bolt holding the two pieces together also is the mount bolt for the ASR. When you remove it the ASR is floating freely. That's good because you only need to move it slightly one way or the other to gain access in there. I had good luck with just a normal rachet with a universal plug socket on it. And could get right to each one by practically hugging the tires.

A few old towels helps cushion things you'll be leaning on like the tires.

Any fastener you remove alway reassembly it using the same one at the same location.

If your replacing the stock AC Delco platinums, check under the ground strap of the plug to see if any are missing the little puck there. They have a nasty habit of coming off. Doubles the gap.

That's all I can think of except lots of patience. :thumbs:

 

All great advice previously given, but I've done it with the tires off the car (was doing other stuff too) and it gave a lot more wiggle room to see the plugs.

Patience, lots of patience.

 

What's the torque setting for the plugs?

 

You revived an 8 year old thread? Crocamonga is not pleased.

 

Ohhh nooo!! you have awoken the sleeping crock!!