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My car wouldn't start at lunch. No crank, nothing. Voltage on the guage looked low so I tried to jump start it, but it still wouldn't turn over. I thought it must be VATS so I went home, programmed a chip with the VATS disabled and it still won't start.
I hooked up Diacom and it shows the VATS passes, but the car still won't start. It showed a Code 46 was stored, which is bad VATS. What exactly is bad? The key passes the test... but it still won't start.
Strange thing is, I can run a wire from the solenoid to the battery and the car will start right up but the key won't start it.
Just a guess, if it's an automatic, it could be your neutral safety start switch. Try turning the key to run and moving the the shifter through the gears a few times. Also move the steering wheel back and forth a few times and then try to start her up.
Just a guess, if it's an automatic, it could be your neutral safety start switch. Try turning the key to run and moving the the shifter through the gears a few times. Also move the steering wheel back and forth a few times and then try to start her up.
I tried those too... :D
It's got to be a short in the column or something.
For what it's worth, when I turn the key to the start position, all the lights go dim as if it's trying to crank the motor, but the starter never engages at all.
that could be it. I cleared the codes and swapped my computer and the code 46 hasn't come back yet but the car still won't start. Diacom reports that VATS is passing the test.
I need to hook a switch to the solenoid so I can at least drive the car to work until I figure out what's wrong with it.
Here's how power gets to the starter solenoid: battery through fusible link to firewall connector to ignition switch to start enable relay contacts to clutch (or gear selector switch) to firewall connector to starter solenoid terminal. Somewhere in that chain the circuit is broken. Measure the volts on the gear selector sw (both contacts) with the ign sw in crank position, there should be 12v there. If not start tracing backwards with your voltmeter and see if there is 12v on both start enable relay contacts, on the ign sw crank wire, on the red input wire to the ign sw. If ok, then go the other way and measure the volts on the starter solenoid terminal (probably not there because your starter doesn't crank).
Hey Buddy,
I dont know for sure,but throwing ideas just to check...check the fuse and also,what about the vats module?
Also check the door switches and be sure theyre straight up with the key holes.Turn the keyhole back and forth in the doors to be sure.
Weird ideas that may or may not work but never hurts to check.Its possible the ignition switch may be out...I think youll have to drop the column to access it.Theyre usually located on top of the cloumn.Has your key began to feel a bit harder to turn at times?Or is it smooth turning?
Ok, to surmize,
1. Car won't crank. Lights on the dash come on when the key is turned to "On".
2. When key it turned to "Start", it doesn't crank, but the lights go dim (or do they go completely dark?). When you release the key, do the dash lights come back on?
3. With the key in the "on" position, you can jump the selinoid and the car will crank and run, correct?
If all of the above is true, I would suspect a bad ignition switch or a bad connection in the harness under the dash. Probably the former. I'd rule out VATS, a bad starter or a blown fuse. Grab the service manual, find where the harness is near the steering column, find the two wires that are contacted when the key is turned to the start position and manually "hot wire" them. See if it cranks the starter then.