u-joint question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 200
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From: Tempe AZ
u-joint question
How hard would it be for me to install u-joints? Not sure which one is toast, so I want to replace all the ones that involve halfshafts cause the cars pulls right pretty hard even after alignment. Oh, and it sounds really loud like it wants to die. Whats the best kind of u-joint to get, and where do I get it from? Is this something I can fix with a set of basic tools and little mechanical experience? If not, how much do shops charge?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Beavercreek OR
Re: u-joint question (Corvettaholic)
Is this something I can fix with a set of basic tools and little mechanical experience? If not, how much do shops charge?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Tempe AZ
Re: u-joint question (86Moon)
I used the search thing and all I came up with was when Bogus replaced his. Said that there was a ton of stuff to remove... like what? Will I need any special tools to do this? I would LOVE to do it myself to save some precious money.
just got on autozone.com, and there's some cheap bruteforce u-joints for $14. That fits nicely in my budget, cause i'm dirt poor. Are there any horror stories with these, or will they work good enough? Got a pretty much stock 85 with a crapload of miles on it.
[Modified by Corvettaholic, 8:09 PM 2/19/2004]
just got on autozone.com, and there's some cheap bruteforce u-joints for $14. That fits nicely in my budget, cause i'm dirt poor. Are there any horror stories with these, or will they work good enough? Got a pretty much stock 85 with a crapload of miles on it.
[Modified by Corvettaholic, 8:09 PM 2/19/2004]
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Sin City
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Re: u-joint question (Corvettaholic)
This is scorp508's tip that can be found in the tools/tech tips/C4 section of the forums. Lots of good stuff there!
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,292
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From: Beavercreek OR
Re: u-joint question (Corvettaholic)
Don't Do That!! Spicers only. I have to go to a class, if someone hasn't given you a hand by the time I can check back, I will, But someone else will show before that I bet :cheers:
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
Re: u-joint question (Corvettaholic)
How hard would it be for me to install u-joints?
Not sure which one is toast, so I want to replace all the ones that involve halfshafts cause the cars pulls right pretty hard even after alignment. Oh, and it sounds really loud like it wants to die.
Whats the best kind of u-joint to get, and where do I get it from?
Is this something I can fix with a set of basic tools and little mechanical experience? If not, how much do shops charge?
I would recommend getting under there a day or 2 earlier and hit all the bolts - exhaust and ujoints - with some PB blaster to soften them up a bit.
From what I have read, that service seems to hover between $200.00~$300.00, plus parts. I would also change the rear diff fluid. Use 2 bottles of Diff Additive - That's Gordon Killebrew's latest recommendation, he is god, so, I do pretty much what he suggests. :)
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
Re: u-joint question (Corvettaholic)
I used the search thing and all I came up with was when Bogus replaced his. Said that there was a ton of stuff to remove... like what? Will I need any special tools to do this? I would LOVE to do it myself to save some precious money.
just got on autozone.com, and there's some cheap bruteforce u-joints for $14. That fits nicely in my budget, cause i'm dirt poor. Are there any horror stories with these, or will they work good enough? Got a pretty much stock 85 with a crapload of miles on it.
[Modified by Corvettaholic, 8:09 PM 2/19/2004]
just got on autozone.com, and there's some cheap bruteforce u-joints for $14. That fits nicely in my budget, cause i'm dirt poor. Are there any horror stories with these, or will they work good enough? Got a pretty much stock 85 with a crapload of miles on it.
[Modified by Corvettaholic, 8:09 PM 2/19/2004]
I bought the Brute Force before I heard the bad things... but the bad seems to be limited to racers and not street drivers. The issues seem to be related to hard launches... I will replace those with Spicers, next time.
I don't see you having a problem with the Brute Force. I had them installed on the drive shaft 2 years ago, no problems... but I don't race. So for street use, they should be fine.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 200
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From: Tempe AZ
Re: u-joint question (scorp508)
spicers it is then! anyone know how much they run at napa? I was talking to my buddy at work and he was gonna do it while I played soldier this weekend, but he has no press and no air compressor. So better off taking it to a shop then. So if I supply the parts, then I'm looking at $300? Is that for how much u-joints or does it matter? I was thinking of doing as many as I can so I don't have to worry about it later, depending on price. My $330 insurance payment (monthly) is coming up real quick... :U
Racer
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 300
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From: Perth WA
Re: u-joint question (vader86)
You don't need a press. You can get the u-joints out with a bench vice and a couple of different size sockets. I am actually doing this to my car today.
I replaced two on one side a few months ago but now the other side needs doing.
One side took me about 2.5 hrs.
You don't need to drop too much but the u-joint bolts are a little fiddly to get at.
Good Luck
I replaced two on one side a few months ago but now the other side needs doing.
One side took me about 2.5 hrs.
You don't need to drop too much but the u-joint bolts are a little fiddly to get at.
Good Luck
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,292
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From: Beavercreek OR
Re: u-joint question (Corvettaholic)
If you pull the shafts you can have the new joints installed at the vendor or a reputable repair shop for about $5.00 @. That a LOT cheaper than $200-$300 :smash:
Drifting
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 28
From: Woodbridge NJ
Re: u-joint question (Corvettaholic)
If I were near Tempe I would help you, but I'm in Jersey. I just did my 1/2 shafts a couple months ago. Follow Scorp508's tech tip and you can't go wrong. Make sure your bench vise opens wide enough to press the old one's out and the new one's in. Keep the $300.00 for future repairs! :jester
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Re: u-joint question (Corvettaholic)
R & R of the halfshafts isn't trickey. No special tools required, either. Just follow the instructions in your service/repair manual if removal of the shafts isn't intutitive. If you take the shafts to a driveline shop, they will install them cheap, or for free, if you buy the joints from them. A few minutes in the yellow pages and on the phone, can probably save you a bundle. Good luck, and...
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,394
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From: Lakeville MI
Re: u-joint question (CFI-EFI)
Tip on removing the inner strap bolts. Use a long extension on the 8mm socket (long enough to go through the wheel spokes, if the wheels are still on) and simply rotate the wheel for bolt clearance. Much easier than laying on your back under the car.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Boston, MA
Re: u-joint question (CFI-EFI)
R & R of the halfshafts isn't trickey. No special tools required, either.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Re: u-joint question (scorp508)
If he does it how I do it he'll need a tie rod end seperator fork. If he doesn't have one then he can rent it at Autozone for $15 and get his $ back when he returns it.
When I have a tight taper fit like a tie rod end or ball joint to deal with, I use this proceedure. After removing the cotter key and nut, I rap on the female part, adjacent to the tapered hole, with a hammer. Then I thread the nut, castles down, back onto the stud, until the top of the nut is flush (even) with the top of the stud. With a piece of scrap metal as a "load distributor", over the nut and stud, I try to drive the stud out with a few hammer blows. Sharp raps seem to work better than huge blows. All you have to do is break the grip of the taper fit. With a pickle fork, you risk damage to the boot. I don't know if it was steel in aluminum, or what, but the first time (19 year old Corvette) I separated the tie rod end from the rear knuckle, it came apart so easily, it was scary. That is MY experience.
RACE ON!!!
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
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From: San Pedro CA
Re: u-joint question (scorp508)
FWIW you see brute force in my writeup above. They are junk and lasted hardly at all in my car. They've been long replaced with cold forged spicers.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
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From: San Pedro CA
Re: u-joint question (scorp508)
R & R of the halfshafts isn't trickey. No special tools required, either.
If he does it how I do it he'll need a tie rod end seperator fork. If he doesn't have one then he can rent it at Autozone for $15 and get his $ back when he returns it.
If he does it how I do it he'll need a tie rod end seperator fork. If he doesn't have one then he can rent it at Autozone for $15 and get his $ back when he returns it.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,383
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From: Boston, MA
Re: u-joint question (bogus)
Brian - YOU RACE... that was my comment... for street use, they should be fine... I will let everyone know.