I can never remember which. I have a 1992 LT1 and get the dreaded "Code 32" on my ECM occasionally. Do I replace the EGR VALVE or SWITCH to cure this common C-4 problem? :confused:

 

I'm thinkin valve **** :cheers:

 

I think you're right. On a previously written post-it note, I sribbled "EGR valve. $39" :yesnod:

 

Switch is an $8 gamble that fixes it 80% of the time :cheers:

 

I just had this on my 86 and it was the valve, but it is easy enough to pinpoint the problem:

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65Z01
Cruise-In II Veteran


10980 posts [100%]
Blauvelt NY

Re: Trouble Code 32 EGR Failure (skybolt31) 7:16 PM 2/15/2004


First check the EGR solenoid vacuum & electrical connections that you may have touched when changing the stat.
If all is well there, use the EGR diagnostic method on my site to isolate the problem cause. In your case the EGR temp switch is not signaling the ECM that the EGR is active after the ECM has commanded the EGR valve to open.
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My 1988 Z01 #65 Site
East Coast Corvette Challenge Site
Time Slip Best ET/Speed/HP = 13.07sec/104.3mph/300hp(crank)
Normalized Best ET/Speed/HP = 13.12sec/103.8mph/295hp(crank)
DynoJet 248H Best HP/Torque = 247hp@4,500rpm/324ft-lb(rwheels)
Best 60' = 1.834sec, 2,000rpm TC, 2.59, GY Eagles, 1,800rpm launch
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I just put a vacum on the egr valve and checked to see if the switch closed. I could feel the tube assembly getting hot, so I knew the egr valve was working, and the switch neve closed. In any event, the switch is only $8 and much easier to replace than the egr valve.

 

:iagree:

 

I had the same thing on my 92, I did both so I dont have to screw around with it again.

 

Thanks, guys. I'll opt for the switch, but keep the EGR valve under advisement if the SES lamp comes on again for Code 32. :cheers: