I've been somewhat successful at polishing alum. parts but it seems terribly time-consuming and just plain hard work. After spending for the buffs, compounds tec. it can been an expensive process, also.
Does anyone, after trying all the various types of buffs, grit(s), set-up wheels, die grinders, etc. as I have, arrived at a proven approach? For ex. some sources say to use the black(emery). Others skip this. I found 80 grit "greaseless"to be useless. My buffer motor may be done on power. It's a 1/2 hp. Like anything else, by the time the beginner tries all the possibilities--he could have paid someone else to do the job!
Any thoughts are appreciated. :confused:

 

My method involves polishing for 10 hours, realizing I'm only 25% done, then getting frustrated and unmotivated, and sticking the part back on the shelf for 6 months. I keep getting the feeling my time would be better spent working for minimum wage during those hours and using the money to pay a guy who knows what he's doing.

:lurk:

 

if your doing it on your own, hope you have a strong elbow. The way I did it ( i'll post my pics soon) start with 600 wet-sanding paper -you can get it from a local paint shop. Instead of water use WD-40 on the paper( it will make a horrible smell) but the results are well worth it-then 800-1500-2000, comes out smooth as silk.

 

1/2 hp is powerful enough!

i sand to about a 400-600 grit, then buff with a coarse buff and tripoli, and then i move to a soft buff and this greenish compound... can't remember the name

 

I took mine to profesional polisher. Couldnt be happier with the results.

This pic shows the wheels after being polished.


Sig pic is before polishing.


[Modified by Paul G, 4:11 PM 2/26/2004]

 

Paul- Maybe you mis-understand. Anybody can PAY someone else.. My question is" How To?" #%^!&*#@!***

 

Some people say to use Easy Off Oven Cleaner with lye or Aircraft Paint remover to remove the factory finish. Don't do it! Skip the Easy Off oven cleaner or the Aircraft Paint Remover (I have done it this way and it sucks and makes huge mess, WAY too much work too)..there is no better way to remove the clear coat than a standard drill and a polishing wheel adapter at your local Sears..you will need to buy 5" adhesive backed sandpaper pads for the adapter. Make sure to buy a couple packs of both 100 grit and 220 grit adhesive pads. Your next stop will be at local auto parts superstore and go to the automobile paint isle, buy wet/dry sandpaper in the following grits 400, 600, 800, 1000. Also stop by your local hardware store and pick up a bag of both #00 and #000 steel wool. You will strip 99% of the clearcoat with the 100 grit pads, try to use the drill in a consistent motion that follows the "grain" of the frame when possible. Progress from 220 grit pads to wet/dry and soapy warm water hand sanding from 400, 600, 800, 1000. During the wet dry phase you should make sure to sand in consistent movement that should follow grain of aluminum, DO NOT BUFF IN CIRCLES. After the wet dry phase I then move to the #00 steel wool and buff in the same motion with quite a bit of elbow grease, I then progress to the #000 steel wool and do the same thing...if you have done everything properly your frame should look fairly polished at this stage but the final steps will bring out the "ultimate polish" and give you hopefully a mirror like shine that equals chrome plating. I use a converted angle grinder with the guard removed for this buffing, you can also use a high speed buffer as long as it turns HIGH rpm. Your local Home Depot carries in the tool section a brand of products called DICO, they are in orange/brown packages and they are made for metal finishing. You will need to buy two buffing wheels, make sure to buy the ones that are very tightly stiched together as you will want to apply pressure to the frame with the wheel, the loose buffing wheels will not work the way you need them to. You will also need to buy a stick of EMERY Rouge, TRIPOLI rouge and for optional last step you may want to buy JEWELERS ROUGE (and a 3rd buffing wheel if you buy third stick of rouge). Fire up your buffing wheel and apply EMERY rouge to wheel, polish the frame in consistent movement, reapply rouge as necessary, progress to TRIPOLI rouge and fresh buffing wheel and then finally JEWELER'S ROUGE with a fresh wheel. DO NOT MIX rouges of different types on the same wheel, you will get inconsistent results. I use Wemol for maintenance but occasionally will pull out buffer and give the aluminum a quick hit with EMERY rouge.

If you follow these steps you will be thrilled with result. It sounds like a lot of steps but if done properly it won't take as long as you think. The basic steps I have outlined are necessary on any aluminum, and may vary a little as I have found. This is THE WAY to do this correctly in my opinion, do not believe there is any big secret shortcut - polishing aluminum is big commitment. The biggest thing I have learned is using the drill and polishing adapter to strip the clearcoat - switching to this method save me a HUGE amount of time.

This will also work for TPI or any other aluminum you want to polish

 

You didn't tell us what parts you are trying to polish. Different parts take different extremes of effort.


[Modified by arandy, 5:39 AM 2/27/2004]

 

Chosen Won has a pretty good writeup, but I personally think aircraft stripper has some good value. I've never polished something that only has clearcoat, but my experience polishing something that has been powdercoated or painted is that the sanding drums/disks gum up real quick if you don't strip it off first. To me it was a lot easier to use aircraft stripper. Yes it is messy, but why not let it do the work for you. As for the buffs, you do want to start with a stiffer buff with emory/tripoli. But the loose buffs are good as final finish with white rouge.

 

Mine were already stripped, but not really polished. Killed 2 birds with one stone, and did the tires and polishing at the same time. Had the tires taken off the rim, and put the wheels on a lathe. Started with 400 or 500, and worked up through 2000 grit. Even on the lathe it took like 2 days of sanding, but they looked like mirrors when done. It's been pretty easy keeping them up, did it 3 years ago.

 

http://www.gmtips.com/3rd-degree/dox/tips/tips.htm

Scroll down to the buffing/polishing links.

:seeya

 

:cool: :cheers:

 

Good link :thumbs:

 

:iagree: :thumbs:

 

I find a little brasso or Neverdull does wonders. I polish alot of stuff. I only use sandpaper too. Only put the Brasso or Never Dull on when your at the 1000 grit mark. Use on piece to rub it in, DO NOT DO CIRCLE!! it will turn black and get kinda hard to rub after a while, when this happens switch to a clean 1000 grit piece and buff out, again no circles. It will polish up in no time. Use the 1000 to get all the streaks out and little inperfectations before moving up in grit. So in that in mind your prep work before the polishing is the most inportant part!!! I am not sure where you can find it but, I have a kit call a "window Kit" it for small scrathes in glass. Aircraft Mechs, use it. Thats why i got it. It goes up to 12000 grit, which is a pretty much leather. If you can find it get it... mirror finish. Oh I almost forgot..once you moved up grit never go down again unless you want to start over.

Also whatever you can do to get the clear coat off the fastest is always a plus..no matter what the mess. Keep this in mind when takeing off clear coat..it there for a reason..unless you re-seal it after polishing you might get some rust.


[Modified by Superk, 5:30 PM 2/28/2004]

 

Use Wenol.