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I was thinking about descreening my MAF and I was wondering if taking the two screens off has any adverse effects? Or are there any special secrets for taking the screen off that would be good to know. Thanks
For what it is worth, I also descreened my 1987 in the pursuit of cheap speed. First one side, then both. The slips don't lie.... no change in results.
I ran the descreened for several years without any problems however. When I recently replaced the MAF I just slapped the new unit in place (screens and all).
Now, some people claim that if you do a port'n'polish on the fins inside you can squeak a little more et out. Maybe someone here can speak to that approach.
I'd be curious about other descreening results. I remember when I first started making passes... I was crazy enough to try ANYTHING that might help, including waving chicken feet in the air (Voodoo) :crazy:
it'll have adverse affects if something somehow breaks on of those micro-thin wires...then you'll have a messed up MAF and a few less dollars in your pocket.... i thought about it at one time and after doing some research here and thinking about it, there is no real beneift...those screens just aren't restrictive enough...they actually "normalize" the flow of air into the intake...but to feel/see/notice any difference you have to do REAL mods (i.e. spend money).
I've heard descreening it will cause a more turbulent air flow, and cause false readings. Also getting something to land on the heated wire would break ur already modified and now non warrientied MAF. At $80-120 a pop for my bird, i wouldnt touch it.
The newer, late C4 style maf's used actual veins and the screen really wasn't a screen, but was there to straighten the airflow, mostly for the F-body intakes that had a couple curves before the air hit the t/b.
On the older, L98 style mafs, the screens really are screens meant to protect the filiment. I ran mine without screens for a while and had no driveability issues. I just got a new one and put it in w/ screens. I plan on dyno'ing the car when i visit my sister in may, so I should be able to make a couple pulls with and without the screens to see if there's any difference on a car with a good handful of bolt on type mods.
Going by the books, descreening the maf opens up the airflow from something like 550 cfm to well over 700cfm, which is pretty significant. Take that for what its worth.
It does help on the L98. It is proven. I would remove the screens.
Removing the heatsink fins is up to you, they had to put them in after testing the MAF in Death Valley-type heat. Removing them adds considerable CFM flow which the L98 needs.
I wouldnt do it simply because its easy to screw up the sensor filaments.
For what it is worth, I also descreened my 1987 in the pursuit of cheap speed. First one side, then both. The slips don't lie.... no change in results.
I ran the descreened for several years without any problems however. When I recently replaced the MAF I just slapped the new unit in place (screens and all).
Now, some people claim that if you do a port'n'polish on the fins inside you can squeak a little more et out. Maybe someone here can speak to that approach.
I'd be curious about other descreening results. I remember when I first started making passes... I was crazy enough to try ANYTHING that might help, including waving chicken feet in the air (Voodoo) :crazy:
I'm w/ you there. I tried most of the free or cheap mods and didn't gain JACK!! Check my web page in my sig for my results. I even have a dyno to prove the shameful results. I too have been running screenles for a while w/ no ill affects though.
DO IT! Very easy free mod! I have done this on my 86 IROC, 87 Trans AM, and now my 86 C-4. Helps them breathe on the big end, and as long as you run an air filter the MAF internal wires will be fine. I did the heat sink fins on my IROC which is kind of a pain, IMO I think just screen removal is plenty good. Just get a small flat screw driver and pry the screen up until you get the edge out of the groove it sits in and then just pull the whole thing out. You'll be ready to ROCK! :steering:
WarMachine....something must be wrong with your car/setup. You netted no gains in MPH and barely any ET from all those mods. Doesn't go with other results I've seen from similar mods.
It does help on the L98. It is proven. I would remove the screens.
Removing the heatsink fins is up to you, they had to put them in after testing the MAF in Death Valley-type heat. Removing them adds considerable CFM flow which the L98 needs.
when i got my 86, the screens had been removed, and the heatsink was grinded almost all the way down. i've been driving the car everyday for about a year now and have had no driveability issues what so ever :thumbs:
I've heard descreening it will cause a more turbulent air flow, and cause false readings. Also getting something to land on the heated wire would break ur already modified and now non warrientied MAF. At $80-120 a pop for my bird, i wouldnt touch it.
This very point was recently address in the Tech Sections of one of the mags, I think it was Corvette Fever. In essence the turbulence issue is so much non-sense, so scratch that from your list of "Things to Worry About".
Removing the screens and heat sinks increases the amount of air the MAF can flow BUT you'll only see a power improvement IF your engine needs the additional flow.
If the stock MAF presents a restriction to airflow into the engine, then removing the screens and heat sinks will help and you should see an improvement.
If the restrictions(s) is/are somewhere else, like plenum, runners, intake manifold, heads, camshaft, exhaust, etc., then just modifying the MAF won't show any benefit.
:iagree: I agree with Jake. I removed mine about 2 years ago, with no problems yet. I used a hack-saw blade to cut the vanes, as I didn't really want to stick a grinder in there.
WarMachine....something must be wrong with your car/setup. You netted no gains in MPH and barely any ET from all those mods. Doesn't go with other results I've seen from similar mods.
My car gained 3/10 and 2 MPH from a catback...
If I go by timeslips alone, I can see a gain of some sort but there are too many variables to say I gained anything. My best slip (14.05 @ 97 mph) was the best "air" day I went dragging. Once I saw a guy better his time by .25 on his 3rd gen Camaro by taking out his headlight and putting a cup in there w/ the bottom cut out. Cheapest ram air mod I've ever seen.:lol: Sounds impressive but there was also at least a 10 degree difference between runs too so it's hard to say what he actully gained w/ the cup.
I was judging the mods by the dyno. Stock my car is supposed to be 240hp. The dyno shows 252 hp and I bet most if not all of that was from the cat back unless all my mods increased the tq and not the hp b/c I saw and avg. of 319 rwtq. That's much more than the stock tq rating.
When you take out the screens and heats sinks, you change calibration of the MAF. The MAF sensor is what fuel your car. In most C4's, the calibration doesn't really make the much of a difference, if you into chip burning and want smooth possible engine leave them in. The air straighten effect of the MAF isn't going to make any difference at the TB.
FYI i have my screens out of my MAF and the heat sinks, if I was to buy another new I would leave them in (but that is because I am into custom chip burning)
I think a lot of guys believe temperature makes more of a difference than it does. Granted, a 45 degree day like you'd get out at Englishtown is going to be better than a 120 day in Phoenix, all other variables the same, but 10 degrees isn't going make a .25 difference. Out here, on the Friday night drags, the temp I was used to seeing when I got to the track was around 90-95 degrees. It'd drop down to around 75 when the sun went down. Assuming the barometric pressure and other factors didn't change too much come nightfall, I was still running within a tenth of what I ran when it was near 100 degrees.
I know a lot of people are gonna disagree, but that's been my experience and it was the same way when I ran in south carolina. I only saw significant difference when the temps drop severely.