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I installed a new AC Delco fuel pump in my '85 Corvette. The instructions said to solder the ground wire to where it connects to the pick up tube. I spliced and soldered this wire about a half inch lower but left it bare, figuring the gas would dissolve any shrink wrap (instructions said not to use electrical tape for that reason, but did say to solder where the ground wire attaches...I spliced a half inch lower). Would anyone recommend putting a crimp cover or something similar over this splice? The hot wire goes all the way to the top and the ground wire is basically connected to the pickup tube assembly. What happens if the fuel tank is low and the ground would happen to break or the exposed splice hit the pickup tube (both grounds)? I am a bit nervous when it comes to fuel and submerged electrical components. I have never heard of anyone having a problem or concern with this so I am probably just overly paranoid (or have been watching too many CHIPs reruns).
What do you mean "where the ground wire attaches"? ...as in where it attaches to the pick-up tube?
If you cut the existing (stamp welded to pickup tube) wire a few inches from the ground point...and then soldered the new wire to the old wire you should be ok....no insulation needed...if it is ground wire. Actually I've used crimp connectors(insulated) in other cars (Toyota specs it). Of course, I tested the insulation in a jar of gasoline for a few days and it never softened.
Thanks GRX. I spliced the ground wire close to where it attached to the pick up tube, per the instructions. I was surprised the AC Delco pump wouldn't simply plug in, rather requiring soldering. I guess they make the same part so it fits different cars. Would a bare wire splice eventually corrode in the fuel, increasing the chance for a short?
It will be fine as long as you soldered the splice. You said you did that. Corrosion can happen anywhere. The chances for a normally used car that will have its fuel pump replaced normally is small. Worry about corrosion BETWEEN two separate metal surfaces that require an electrical contact. I always use STAR washers on theaded terminals for optimum conductivity between ring lug and mating surface. The corrosion film that can build will increase resistance and will also create alot of heat at the resistance point.
Always twist both wires together and solder completely. Avoid positioning the wires where the gas might make them RUB together and wear insultion.
The first time I ever changed a in-tank pump I was VERY nervous. Make sure ALL connections are good and all will be well.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Re: Fuel Pump Wiring Question (Jer)
Jer, the entire fuel sender/line assembly is grounded. Also, fuel isn't conductive, so don't worry about that. All cars have a submerged sending unit with a voltage difference across it. Just make sure the +12v wire to the pump is insulated so that it doesn't short against any metal, and make sure it doesn't snag when you're fishing it into the hole.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Re: Fuel Pump Wiring Question (CentralCoaster)
BTW, the positive wire plugged right in, but I had to solder the ground. I just cut both of em and soldered the new end to the original wire that's soldered onto the metal fuel line.
My replacement fuel pump had a different plug on it, so it was necessary to use the new wires.
Oh, and gas isn't conductive because it's non-polar. Remember that next time you see one of these magetic fuel saving devices. :rolleyes: Magnetic and electrical currents have zero effect on gas.