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anybody every used these headers before? I am looking at the 1-7/8" stepped to 2" headers. Any comments? I may get them in the weld up kit form. http://www.stahlheaders.com/Web113P_1.html
No way to bolt up all the accy brackets with those headers on an LT1. Without the brackets there will be vibrations. If you don't mind vibrations might as well get the Hooker TPI long tubes and save lots of money.
:iagree: you could make a standoff and buy 1 inch longer bolts but... for $1,000 headers those things should slip in like butter and have not one single problem with them. They do look pretty sweet though. But pricy IMHO. :cheers:
No way to bolt up all the accy brackets with those headers on an LT1. Without the brackets there will be vibrations. If you don't mind vibrations might as well get the Hooker TPI long tubes and save lots of money.
which part won't bolt up? i have the L98 hookers on my '96, and i had no problem getting all the stock braces back in place. judging from the pics, i don't see anything about the stahls that would change that, but i might be missing something.
i do see a problem, though. the locations for the O2 sensors look like they won't plug in without extending the harness. i welded bungs into my hookers in places where it all worked, the plugs all reached fine.
Hes talking about the Compressor and Alternator bracket posts that attach to the manifolds. :yesnod:
ok, right, i bolted them back on with my hookers. they came with 2 sleeves which worked as standoffs to allow me to do this using the original bolts with stud heads where needed.
From: I'm the walkin dude I can see all of the world...
St. Jude Donor '03
Re: Stahl headers for C4 (MSR)
Hes talking about the Compressor and Alternator bracket posts that attach to the manifolds. :yesnod:
ok, right, i bolted them back on with my hookers. they came with 2 sleeves which worked as standoffs to allow me to do this using the original bolts with stud heads where needed.
-michael
Thats what I was thinking too. I bought my hookers used so I figured I could just get a sleeve and use the original bolt. Seems to me you could do that with thse ultra expensive headers too. :yesnod:
Jere builds killer headers... I actually patterned (okay, I COPIED) a set of the 1 7/8" to 2" ones when I built my 1 7/8" ones... They're very nice!
-Jeb
For what it's worth..... a local(reputable) speed shop/machinist related to me that they have serious fitment problems. He's a longtime chevy specialist. Of course, he had an interest in selling another brand (Hooker) that he could supply vs the Stahl direct purchase by retail customers. Like the other comment, they're pricey to boot.
I bought a set of hooker coated 1 3/4"headers and the exhaust tubes were smaller than my ported brodix track1 heads exhaust ports. So I am looking for a 1 7/8" or 2" primary. I am even thinking of welding up a set of my own. I am not to worried about the brackets. Just looking for ideas. Any help out there...
I have the race only version of the Stahl 1 7/8 - 2" stepped header. They make my old set of TPIS 1 3/4" headers look like toys. The collectors are alot longer and I had evacuation tubes welded in. I run open header, so marrying them up to a "y" pipe was not an issue.
Jere Stahl has been making headers many year. I was at their manufacturing fascility in York,PA
I ordered mine for the Brodix 18* spread port heads. The install is made easy, because the collector tubes were removeable on the headers (optional, I believe). The big issue was that the starter was touching. I was not thrilled with Jeres solution to use a 3/8" flange plate to space them out away from the header tube. If these headers were cutom made to a C4, then why did my stock gear reduction starter have clearance issues. I was not given a straight answer.
Remember that my headers were race only, so the 3.5" collectors were not designed to marry up to a "Y" pipe. My collectors actually angle down in the back which allows for more floor board clearance, but less ground clearance.