Hello,

I am going to install the new 74219 camshaft and the Superram this week. I have found some tips on how to install the SR, but I would like some do's and don'ts on how to install the cam. Do I have to remove the AC lines for exampel?

Thanks in advance.

 

I know there are differences between my 86 and your 91, but I've never had to discharge my A/C to change cams.

The condenser can be moved upward just enough to allow the cam to slide out and the compressor and accumulator can be moved out of the way. I've used cable ties (plastic tie wraps) or string/rope to hold them out of the way.

With the radiator out, I unbolt one of the power steering lines that is directly in front of the dampner. This allows the dampner puller to be fitted and the dampner can be removed and reinstalled with little fuss.

I've always loosened the oil pan bolts enough to allow the front of the pan to drop down just enough for the timing chain cover to be removed and reinstalled. Not doing this will almost certainly result in an oil leak at the timing chain cover/oil pan junctions.

Make absolutely sure that the timing marks on the camshaft gear and the crank gear align. Use a straight edge if necessary; YOU DON'T WANT TO INSTALL THE CAM ONE TOOTH OFF. Look straight at them, not at an angle which can induce parallex error.

It's easiest to turn the engine so that the #1 piston is on the exhaust stroke. This will bring the cam dowel pin to the 3 o'clock pistion and the crank dot to the 12 noon position and the camshaft dot to the 6 o'clock position. You'll be able to better see the dot alignments with the two of them closer together.

The harmonic dampner bolt may be a small problem to break loose. The engine may turn as you try to loosen it. If this happens, and you can't get an air/electric impact wrench in there, you will need to somehow wedge one of the flexplate teeth with a heavy screwdriver. It's easiest with two people - one under the car and the other working the ratchet.

Trying to keep up with the differences among all the different years of Vettes is beyond me, so some of this may not apply to your year.

I hope it helps though.

Jake

 

Note to self: If the cam seems to be hitting something as it comes out(hem hem CROSSMEMBER) put a jack under the front of the engine and jack it up. Don't try to force it, you'll screw up the berings.

 

Wow, I just went through it. I debate whether or not I would do it again with the engine still in the car! Here go the Do"s I learned : take lots of digital pictures along the way for referencing Bolts, wiring etc., Get a good hub puller- installer (I stripped-out my first one), Do change your opti, wires, plugs while you are in there (way too much work to wait till later), Just loosen up the oil pan and lower it to remove the front cover (life is alot easier this way). do not remove the starter or air conditioning (I did needlessly) just remove the compressor bolts, do remove the alternator. Definately, loosen the motor mounts and raise the motor one inch, use a cam installer or be darn careful removing and reinstalling, use lots of lube (your choice) I used assembly lube. Definately, don't forget those little o-rings on the water-pump drive key ( I looked everywhere for where they went). Use lots of silicone on the lower front cover and oil pan. Finally, do let your silicone set-up on the front and rear of the intake before you install. I let mine set-up and shaved it level with a razor blade and then laid a thin adhesive bead before I re-installed the intake It made a super sweet seal that held-up to my moving the intake around while I lined-up the intake bolt holes)). My engine didn't leak a drop along the front cover and intake. I am getting a little seepage along the bottom of the front-cover though. I am guessing, the best way to solve that problem; is to replace the pan gasket (too much trouble) The hub install on mine was almost as difficult as the removal P.I.T.A. My rocker arm adjustment was pretty far off, I guess the lifters really leaked down while I changed everthing out. I finally, adjusted mine out with the engine running. ( worked for me, but messy). The rest was easy. I made a few mistakes, like loosing the opt-drive key and trying to install the hub on farther than it needs to go. Oops! Take a reference mark, so you know when to quit ing. Good luck I hope you find my mistakes useful. :cool:

 

Thanks for all the answers. Fortunately a friend of mine that is a good mechanic helps me out.

One more question though. The spec for springs with the original camshaft is somewhere between 65-85lbs. We will check the spring load tonight.The questions is if I need bigger springs (more load) with my new 74219 cam or is it ok with the original springs (if they are within spec.)?

Thanks again

 

Your stock springs will not do the job. I just had the same question in this thread:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=768792