Mr6spd

Fidanza lists a part number 198581 for L98 engines (does not specify 4+3 or ZF transmission) They also list part number 198501 for LT1/LT4.

I have to think that they screwed up and that the 198581 is only for L98 with 4+3 transmissions, and that the 198501 is really for L98/LT1/LT4 engines mated to the ZF 6 speed. Is this correct???


[Modified by Mr6spd, 2:04 AM 4/7/2004]

Dominic Sorresso

Mr6spd,

Talk to the people from Clutch Express. I bought a Fidanza specifically for the 6spd conversion from a 4+3. Cost me $359 with shipping. http://www.clutchexpress.com/fordtoj...neral%20Motors


[Modified by Dominic Sorresso, 10:28 PM 4/6/2004]

h rocks

I think you are correct. A number of FW manufacturers show a thicker FW for L98's. My first one had to be removed and re-machined to have the correct amount of travel. The one that ultimately worked on my 1990 was the LT1 flywheel.

Mr6spd

Thanks guys!

h rocks

Remember that the 94-96 discs and T-O bearings are different. The output shaft on the later cars was .035" smaller than the early (black tag) ZF's.

LeeMajors

Sorry for the thread resurrection, trying to figure out which Fidanza for my application and can't quite figure out what the OP finally used.

I have an L82 steel block one piece RMS 4 bolt main I'm building as a stroker for my '72. Original engine is long gone.

I want to put a T-56 behind it with a Fidanza flywheel.

I can't figure out if the correct flywheel is the 198581 which Fidanza shows as correct for the T56 behind the LT1 that was in the 1994-2002 cars?

Or is it the 198501 that was used on the Corvette L98 with the ZF6 6-speed?

No one seems to know... Keep searching the C3 T56 conversion threads and no one seems to have used a Fidanza!

Anyone?

WVZR-1

Call Fidanza direct and discuss this after confirming with the engine builder what crankshaft is to be used with your build. You've an SBC 1PC RMS empty block now or you've already bought the engine kit? Block was originally a what? Much depends upon particular builds including ring gear tooth count and desired clutch applications.

Disregard most you read regarding the C4 M6 usages because the C4 uses a "pull style" clutch in it's OE configuration.

LeeMajors

Yes. I'm picking my own parts and I will assemble it myself. The machine shop is simply doing what I instruct them to do.

I've built everything from 3000GT twin turbo engines to Audi S4 engines to 350 Magnum marine engines. This is the only part that there seems to be no consensus on and the three Fidanza dealers I've sent inquiries to haven't responded, which tells me they don't know.

Just thought someone here might know definitively. I'll put in a call to Fidanza I guess, quicker to make a post here than try to get in touch with them.

Original block was gone long before I owned it. The block is a used, never machined on 4 bolt 1 piece RMS 14010207 casting (early 80's, also used on the 1980 Corvette with the L82), measuring 3.994-3.998" on the cylinders with no scoring, I expect it to machine .030 over just fine. It's getting a 1 piece RMS stroker crank with 6" H-beam rods and the matching pistons. Block will be machined 30 over, line honed if necessary, freeze and cam plugs installed, and clearanced to match.

Cam is Summit CCA-12-433-8 roller conversion with link roller lifters already in hand. Heads are original iron ported and bowl blended, using 1.6 Crane intake rockers and 1.5 outlets. Intake is a Stealth Ram FI conversion with the intake outlets ported to match the heads and gasket matched, computer controlled with the programmer for tuning (been tuning my S4 for a while now). Long-tube exhaust headers to side pipes with in-line mufflers at the back of the pipes. Standard accessories, dual electric fans, with A/C.

Street toy mainly, I expect it to make somewhere around 450-475 HP and want the T56 6-speed on it (had a 98 Z28 for years and a 94 Corvette with the ZF6, as well as my Audi S4 and I just like the 6 speeds).

Need the flywheel to complete the rotating assembly for the machine shop to balance prior to picking it up and assembly, which is the last piece I lack of the puzzle to drop it all off with the machinist.

Kevova

As earlier stated you need to know what starter is designed for block, then you will know the tooth count of flywheel. With your stroker kit is crank internally, externally, or hybrid balanced. The gen II LT1 is hybrid the front half is internal and the back half is external. So design of crank is a factor. It works better to deal with local supplier. The parts dealer should be able to "Hook you up" with what you need. Maybe not a cheap as online but no shipping back and forth when something is not right.

WVZR-1

You keep mentioning 1 PC RMS - I have trouble accepting that for the block you mention.

Kevova

14010207 is a 80-85 350 ci block it with a 2 piece rear seals block. Designed for flat tappet cam.
1 piece rear seal is 1986 and later. Factory roller cam came in 1987.
Hopefully you are not too far into acquiring parts.

LeeMajors

That's really interesting, because I have the block right the heck here, and it's a 1 piece RMS with a 14010207 stamped on the block.

Haven't taken it to the machine shop yet but I'm looking right at the rear main seal and it's a one-piece.

Crank is externally-balanced, which means I'll have to have the crank, flywheel, and harmonic balancer to the shop for balancing then make sure the rods and pistons are all the same weight.

WVZR-1

You mention "stamped" - is it actually CAST in the block or as you mention "stamped".

It might be interesting to post a couple snapshots.

LeeMajors

Sorry, stamped, cast, whichever method is part of the manufacture of the block for that era. It does not appear to be added later.

I'll get some shots tomorrow, it's dark in the garage, not nearly enough light to get all the angles, plus getting ready to go to a Christmas party.

Wasn't really looking for building tips, just flywheel I.D., but now you've got me curious, wondering if some nimrod (previous owner) hammered a one-piece RMS into a 2 piece block? It's a barn pull, had to clean it up a good bit so I didn't get charged a bunch extra for general prep.

If so, I'll have to ship the crank back to Summit and swap for two piece. The last time I let the machine shop choose the parts, they got the same thing I would have bought then marked it up 30%. No thanks.

WVZR-1

Ain't no one offered any building tips!

Letting the shop supply parts for a build = WARRANTY

Supply your own - good luck!!

LeeMajors

I don't mind. Knock on wood, no engine I've built has ever needed warranty work. SBC isn't exactly Audi or Mits, either. THOSE are a royal PITA.

I just want the machine shop to produce a properly-machined block and a balanced rotating assembly. I'll handle the rest myself, it's just busy work.

mtwoolford

Don't take my answer as definitive, but before aftermarket LT /ZF flywheels became available to replace a C4 dual mass stocker, a one piece conversion was to take a Camaro / F Body flywheel and machine off 0.090 inches from the face of the flywheel, but remember that was to accommodate the LT PULL style clutch / pressure plate...so if what your trying to do is essentially put a Camaro flywheel and Camaro T56 trans into a C3, I'd go with the Camaro flywheel along with a matching clutch.

LeeMajors

Yes sir, that's kind of what I'm ending up with here.

The flywheels that appear to work with a 93-97 T56 from an LT1 car to go on a 2-piece RMS iron block for a C3 are:

Fidanza 198661 - currently about $410 - Billet Aluminum 13.5 Pounds
Ram 2555 - currently about $420 - Billet Aluminum 18 Pounds
Centerforce 700107 - Currently about $510 - Billet Steel 29 Pounds
McLeod 460370 - Currently about $450 - Billet Steel 30 pounds

You need a bunch of other stuff, for the stock bell housing, clutch fork, clutch, pressure plate, and such to work, including the master and slave cylinder and pedal assembly, an offset shifter, and some wiring for the reverse lockout, etc, plus removing my crossmember and installing one for this tranny plus the driveshaft.

I spent $800 on the tranny and fork, another $100 on the offset shifter, and I'm anticipating at least $1000 more to get it all done. Hopefully under $2k... we shall see.

LeeMajors

Oh, and the block WAS a 2 piece RMS. Some nimrod had put some kind of silicone all over the RMS that made it look like a one-piece. Have to send the crank back for exchange... Not the end of the world, Summit is pretty good about that, especially when you spend $600-700 bucks at a time - lol

Thanks all for the help,

mtwoolford

I replaced my 96 dual mass flywheel with an aftermarket SPEC flywheel; I didn't want aluminum. So I went with the lightweight billet steel from SPEC, 22lbs; with your stroker maybe the heavier billet steel single mass from spec might be a better choice; but in either case, SPEC makes all three and I'm fairly certain they make them for two piece rear main seals; they sent me a Camaro flywheel first time around but were very good at exchanging it for the right one. One thing I do like about the SPEC flywheel is that it uses a bolt on weight to compensate for internal and external balance crankshafts, which should...theoretically ...make balancing your rotating assembly easier and less expensive (theoretically.)