I have read a lot on this message board about lowering the C4, but it seems as though everybody gets a little bit different results. I want a slightly lower stance on my 1990 Roadster. Will I be able to get 3/4 of an inch in the front and rear? I'm also gonna get a good quality alignment. Also, as long as I am in there, are there any other great bang for buck suspension mods?

 

I've heard of people getting 5/8" lower in the front with the lowering kits but I dont know the max drop distance. I also plan on doing the drop pretty soon. as for other mods, Polyurethane (is that spelled right?) bushings would be nice along with a check of the ball joints and shocks. :yesnod:

 

Thanks

 

The REAR is easy.

Front is a PITA and you can't get it to lower much without changing the spring.

Changing the spring is not so bad though as you will have to take the spring out to lower it anyway.

Good luck.

 

Just finished mine. I dropped the front a full inch and a quarter, and the rear came down two and a half inches. Without buying new springs IMHO, this is as far down you can safely go.

Lots of work that is well rewarded with a great profile! Makes a stocker look "lifted" :D
BEFORE

AFTER

:thumbs:
Special Thanks to Agent86 for his "technical assistance"


[Modified by JrRifleCoach, 8:48 PM 4/8/2004]

 

If all you're doing is lowering, be careful of going to far or you shocks will be on the bump stops all the time. Remember, everything has to work together. You can lower the back easily with new bolts. The front is more time consuming, but not really "hard" to do. There can be one or more "1/8 inch spacer plates" above the spring bumpers already. Taking those out will lower it slightly. You can remove the spring and cut the bumpers and install the lowering "wedges" for more drop. Remember to cut down the aluminum spring clamps (go on each end of the front cross-member the spring goes through) an amount equal to the rubber you cut off - or the spring will not clamp tightly and move inside the cross-member posing handling dangers. If you have two spacers and cut the bumpers off a Z51 spring, you will drop the front jsut over a full inch. I strongly recommend against cutting the rubber from the spring ends as they need this to keep the spring ends properly centered in the lower a-arms during full suspension travel without wearing into the aluminum of the a-arms. If you're removing the spring, consider replacing the control arm bushings with polyeurethane at the same time. I'd also recommend checking the ball joints. RX7KLR, Jason, and I did the upper & lower control arm bushings, upper & lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and removed/cut/reinstalled the spring in about 8 hours on my '89. It took me about 3.5 hours to simply lower a '96 by myself with no part replacements. Good luck. :flag

 

I just finished lowering my roadster. As mentioned, the back is easy. The front was a pain. I heard all the talk of the front not getting low enough with the poly kit. I did not want to do this twice so once I got the spring out, I cut all the rubber off the spring and cut down the rubber on the end of the springs that sit on the lower A's. I kept the rubber on the edges and applied some high strength rubber membrane to the A arms where the springs sits. I even took the Mid America poly wedges and sliced them in half. At the same time, I took both A arms out, cleaned them and took them to a machine shop to have them press in new lower ball joints. The drop was perfect in MY opinion. Along with the Z51 Bilsteins, the car rides perfectly. There is a little more feedback through the steering wheel with the end pads on the spring gone, but the rubber membrane dampens it just enough. Watch those speed bumps though!!!

 

That makes my Z51 look like a 4x4. :lolg:

 

Thanks Guys! Those lowered 'vettes look awesome.

 

That is the path I am on. Lowered back and replaced all the bushings and now doing front. I don't want to slam it just bring it down a little. :)

 

Jerkyboy, have you measured your shocks for adequate travel?

I spent a great deal of time, OK a coupla extra minutes, measuring the fully compressed length of the shocks and compaired that to the installed length. 3/4 inch is not much difference. Luckly my Koni's have a rubber snubber to protect the valving from bottoming out. I cut this in half and cut the upper shock mount rubbers in half as well. The installed length is not quite two full inches from the compressed length.

I measured the old KYBs and these would be running on the bottom. Kinda of a rough ride with no suspension travel.

IMHO you really should check if your bottoming out the shocks.

:cheers: -JRC-


[Modified by JrRifleCoach, 10:43 PM 4/9/2004]

 

Dropped mine a full 1-1/2" with the VanSteel/Hyperco/QA1 conversion

Before:


After:

 

Waaa??

This thread is over 6 years old?

 

I know, I was searching, and didn't see the date until after I posted...:o