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"don't ever use synthetic oil to break in an engine or new mechancial work because it is too slippery. You need to use good old fashion "dino" oil in order to get a good break-in"
I have heard this many times in the last few years. Now with the new cam, rocker arms I need to know if this is true and what is the proper way to break in these new mods.
If you just changed the cam and rockers just put your regular oil in it and let if fly. With a roller cam there will be virtually no wear so there really isn't anything to "break in".
I'd drive it easy for a little while just to make sure your rockers are adjusted right, then go wail on it. :cheers:
I believe the problem with synthetic for breaking in engines is it doesn't let the piston rings seat properly. Since the pistons didn't come out I'd say go right to synthetic.
There was a similar post a couple of years ago and I called Mobil-1, Comp cams, and Hays and all said to use dyno oil for break in then swap to Synth. On all the motors I have built I use dyno for the break in and then swap to Synthetic after about 1500 miles. I change the oil after the first 1/2 hour then every 500 miles after that so I have never been woried about wear. The only concern I would have with using synth. for break in would be the hone patern used not beeing agresive enough for the rings to seat properly with sythetic. If your machinist preps the cylinder walls properly for break in using synth. then I can't see a problem with using it. I can say that I put over 100,000 miles on my 75 motor and it never used a drop of oil untill I sold the car and it was broke in with regular dyno-oil. For your case with a new cam synthetic should be fine.
If your machinist preps the cylinder walls properly for break in using synth. then I can't see a problem with using it. I can say that I put over 100,000 miles on my 75 motor and it never used a drop of oil untill I sold the car and it was broke in with regular dyno-oil. For your case with a new cam synthetic should be fine.
A proper engine build for synthetic is key. After all, Corvettes, Prosches, Mercedes and other high end cars come from the factory with synthetic.
OTOH, you have nothing to lose by running a change of dino oil on a rebuilt engine. It might even be a good idea since you don't really know how well the surfaces were prepped.
I'll put it to you this way. If the syn. oil is so darn slick that it keeps the metal from breaking in then this would mean it causes there to be no friction. Which we all know isn't true. I have used Mobil 1 in all my engines brand new to old and used. No problems. I even read a article about 8 years ago written by a mobile 1, PR person stating that it was fine to use a start oil, or breaken oil.
On roller parts, it doesn't matter. With new cam bushings, crank bushings, rings, etc, you need the genuine petroleum oil to seat these parts properly.
Nick Penta, President of Tribotech Inc, maker of Tribotech IJP Oil Additive (which I use without fail) says use his additive only after the engine has at least 3000 miles on it, either new or after a major rebuild.
But don't new Corvette's come with Mobil One as standard?
"MYTH
You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to Mobil 1.
You can start using Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ in new vehicles at any time, even in brand-new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:
Chevrolet Corvette
All Porsche vehicles
Mercedes-Benz AMG vehicles
Dodge Viper
Ford Mustang Cobra R
All Aston Martin cars
One of the myths that persists about Mobil 1 is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design these high-performance cars, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ can be used in an engine from the day you drive the car off the showroom floor. "
Sounds like Mobil thinks that synthetic oil can be used from day 1.....but then again the above sounds a to me like it was written by their legal dept
I've always heard "break it in with dino, then switch to synthetic" I did that, but am now running dino all the time. If you keep changing it regularly(3000 mile intervals) I feel there isn't a need for synthetic. The late great John Lingenfelter told me the same thing.
I say do what you want, and what you can afford. That simple. I've used mobile 1 in my 383 as the breaken oil, my push, and riding lawn mowers. Both run great and it's been about 4 years since I did this. The push mower still starts with one pull, and this is even after sitting over the winter. I change it once a season, and it never looks dirty when I change it. So, I can only conclude from personal experience that it's OK to break a engine in with Syn. oil.
I think the Syn. oils that claim you can't just want you to think it's better.
The biggest reason you change oil is because it's dirty. Synthetic gets just as dirty as Petroleum oil.
I do that because if it's good enough for a new Z06, it's good enough for me. But my ex-drag racing buddy swears by Pennzoil. But he's from a little town called Somerset, PA.
I've always heard "break it in with dino, then switch to synthetic" I did that, but am now running dino all the time. If you keep changing it regularly(3000 mile intervals) I feel there isn't a need for synthetic. The late great John Lingenfelter told me the same thing.
The only thing wrong with this is the fact that Mobil 1 handles higher temps better than Dino oil and that is one of the reasons that in 92 (first year of LT1) they did away with the oil coolers. :chevy