Hi,

Trying to help a friend replace his 95 LT1 clutch and wanted to know where to look for 101/newbie info on how to do it? Never changed a clutch before but he has on HondaÂ’s. Should he buy the stock GM clutch? Stay with the Dual mass flywheel? What else should he replace while the trans is out and everything is apart?

thanks
robert



[Modified by Bluewasp, 3:30 PM 4/14/2004]

 

Certainly keep the dual mass flywheel unless you want the tranny to sound like a box of rocks. The stock clutch would be OK, but there are better options. I've been very happy with my Mcleod dual friction. It's a normal organic facing on the flywheel side but kevlar on the pressure plate side so it holds very well. It still drives as smooth as the stocker though.

I would avoid SPEC like the plague. There are a few people who have had success with their clutches, but most dont' have good experiences. Assuming they ever actually get you the correct parts, odds are you won't like the feel of it when you're finished.

 

Tools: Extensions, wobble extensions, patience, beer, and if you don't have it yet, I believe it's a 14 MM hex head socket for the drain and fill plugs of the transmission.

FWIW, I have a Fidenza and a Stage II Kevlar clutch. Yes, it's noiser than a stock dual mass, but the entire kit cost less than the flywheel from GM :yesnod: Not to mention, it allows the engine to rev MUCH freeer (hell, there's a 20 pound loss in weight). I wouldn't go back to the dual mass.

I'm going to point this thread out to Arisa. He's had his tranny in and out more times in a week than I've done it in a lifetime! :lolg:

 

Oh gee thanks Shawn :rolleyes: :lolg:

It's super easy to drop the tranny. The C beam can be a bit of a bear but it's not that bad after you know how to move it around. I pull my drive shaft first thing before I do anything else (well actually I drain the tranny fluid first). Make sure to mark the shaft to the diff. yoke so it will go back in right.

Don't forget to pull the shift **** & the four acorn nuts from the rubber shift boot on the inside of the car.

Whatever you do get a 14mm universal (Sears item #00943200000
Mfr. model #43200)

(I think this is a link) http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00943200000

You will need it for the bell housing bolts. Also get a 12mm allen head for the fork ball stud. 18" or so of 3/8" extentions will cover the removal & installation of the tranny....

Now I'm going to try this without looking (Double check these figures.....)

Torque specs.....

Flywheel bolts - 72 ft/lbs
Pressure plate bolts - 37 ft/lbs
Ball stud - 25 ft/lbs (I think)
Tranny to bell housing bolts - 37 ft/lbs
Cover for ball stud - 11 ft/lbs (again I think)
Bolts for universal - 25 N/m
Front C beam bolts - 37 ft/lbs
Rear C beam bolts - 59 ft/lbs
Slave cylinder nuts - no clue I just snug them :rofl:
Flywheel Inspection Cover bolts - same as slave cylinder

Is that everything...... Make sure the fork is in the bell housing cover before putting it on. It won't fit afterwards.....


[Modified by Arisa, 10:12 AM 4/14/2004]

 

Thanks for the great info everyone…

I'll make sure we have all of those tools before we start and having the right tools always makes things go so much smoother.

Would any of U happen to have a few pictures? He doesn’t speak English very well and I know enough German to get me in trouble! ;) Having a few pictures to show him might help and should give me a better idea of what I’m getting myself into.

How long should a job like this take? I'm thinking about taking his car over to the auto skills center on base. The skills center is open from 9am to 5pm but you have to clean up at 4:30. The cost is 4 dollars an hour to rent the bay and lift. I think its $35.00 to keep the car in the bay over night. It is possible to complete this job in one day? What about two?

Thanks
Robert

 

zfdoc.com had a write up on removing and installing the trans, you should check it out!

 

The job is easily doable in a day with two people. I R&R'd my trans over the weekend. I figure it was probably about 6 hrs by myself and not working too fast.

You have to remove the exhaust first. That can be easy or hard depending on how rusted up the bolts are. Not uncommon to twist them off. Then pull the driveshaft out. The c-beam is easier to get in and out if you have the trans-to-bellhousing bolts removed first (allows you to move the trans around more. Make sure you have the trans well supported when you remove the c-beam. There are 3 electrical plugs to remove from the drivers side. One is up high on the side. There are the 4 acorn nuts under the console as mentioned above. The trans is heavy so be ready when it comes out. You will want to support the rear of the engine under the pan when the trans comes out since there is no rear engine support. This can be an issue on a lift - having a good engine support. It's nice working with a hydraulic jack on the floor so you can tilt the engine to any angle you want. You will want it tilted just short of hitting the firewall to get to the bellhousing bolts. When the trans is out you will see a brass-looking hex. Remove that and you will see why you needed the 12 mm hex wrench. That is the back side of the fork pivot - reverse thread! Loosen it up and the bellhousing will come off easier.

Oh, forgot to mention. If the engine is stock, then I would recommend sticking with the stock replacement clutch and dual-mass. You can't resurface the flywheel - just clean it up with scotch brite or similar. And for what it's worth I decided to stick a new Spec Stage II clutch I had laying around in mine over the weekend, and it works fine. No problems with it. Hopefully it will last though.


[Modified by 93Quasar, 12:41 PM 4/14/2004]

 

all, thanks for the great info... :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

 

I have just one tip....get the car as high as possible. The ZF6 weighs 140+ lbs so unless you're freakishly strong you'll need a jack under it when you pull it back and put it in. Try to leave it on the jack once it's out, it's very heavy.

Also, I had trouble aligning the C-beam bolts when I did my '95. I had to twist the differential in the rubber mounts a little to get the bolt holes to line up.

G'luck
:cheers:


[Modified by Atok, 9:06 AM 4/15/2004]