Hi everyone!

Does anyone know what to pay attention to when fitting a Eagle 383 rotating assembly, ESP-B13005L030 I-beam rods, to a stock 1986 1-piece seal 2-bolt 350 bottom end.

How is the balance in these parts, do i need to rebalance?

How mutch and where does the block/parts need to be cleared?
Can i keep my standard base circle Summit K1105, camshaft?

Would be a great help if anyone could post a detailed pickture of a 383 mod.
Perhaps someone even could account for the complete procedure?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Andrew
:auto:


[Modified by Sunyi, 8:22 PM 4/17/2004]

 

Hello and welcome to the forum! Glad you could join us.
So let's talk about the block. What year block is it?
What kind of rear main seal does it have? I didn't look up the Eagle kit you reference, but there is probably one for 1 piece rear main seal and one for 2 piece rear main seal.
The camshaft. I looked it up on summit's website, but it does not say if it is "small base circle" or not. The rods' bolts might hit the cam if it is not.
Balance. If you internally nuetral balance it, it gives you options for your choice of dampners, flywheels/flexplates, transmissions, plus you don't have oddball weights hanging off the dampner and flywheel.
Clearancing. The block needs to be clearanced for the rod bolts. Here is how I did mine by hand in my garage:



I used a air hi speed die grinder and a carbide bit:

I would recommend you have a engine shop do this. Look for one that has actually done it before. Some have CNC machines that do this operation precisely.
you can do it yourself too, but you need to be very careful. The waterjacket is right behind where you need to clearance and very easy to penetrate. That can be fixed if it happens. No big deal. Remove the soft plugs on the side of the block to see inside the block and the cylinder sleeves.
You will need a new oil pan that has the rails widened for stroker cranks unless you already have an aftermarket one.
This is a good chance to add main studs if you like also.
Since the carbide bit will be out, you can chamfer the oil return on the oil pump too:




[Modified by 89 Paul in Cal, 6:23 AM 4/17/2004]

 

89 Paul in Cal has provided some great pictures and info. I DID look up that part number in Summit. It DOES say it is with a one piece seal crank. that means it is for a 1986 and up, block. It also says, "balanced". At that price, it cannot be "internally" balanced. It would be intended for you to use the factory 400 cid "unbalanced" flywheel and damper. That would probably be fine for a daily driver and weekend racer. BUT! There is no factory "unbalanced" 400 flywheel or flexplate that will bolt to a one piece seal crankshaft. If the flywheel/flexplate and the damper are included in the kit, you're all set. But if so, which do they include, a flywheel or a flexplate? You need to ask some questions. If either 'wheel is included, then which one, 153 teeth or 168 teeth. You can use a 168 tooth flexplate with a starter change. A 168 tooth flywheel will not fit a Corvette manual bellhousing.

The 383 conversion is based on the crank from a 400 cid small block Chevy engine. I wouldn't think you'd have to buy an oil pan for the crank to clear. While you're asking questions, ask if the rods in the kit are "stroker" rods and if they will clear the stock base circle camshaft. Even if they say, "yes" check for .050" clearance at the cam. The same .050" you want at the bottom of the cylinder bores and oil pan rails. If the rods don't clear the crank, the rods can be ground for clearance. You don't need a "reduced base circle" cam for a 3.75" stroker. Good luck, and...

RACE ON!!!


[Modified by CFI-EFI, 10:31 AM 4/17/2004]

 

This forum rocks! :iagree:

 

Paul: Thanks for the great picktures and invaluable info.
The block is a 2-bolt 1986 350cui engine, 1-piece rear seal.
Camshaft has a standard base circle.

CFI-EFI: The kit includes a 153-tooth flexplate and a new balancer, rods are 5.700".
If they are special "stroker rods" i don´t know. Didn´t get a decent answer from Eagle.
When it comes to balancing, i have a corvette colleague in sweden that recently claimed that the balance is waaaay off.
The camshaft is a standard hydralic one.
I will use main studs instead of bolts.

I´m getting a bit confused :confused:, Paul says i need a special pan, you say i don´t.

Andrew




[Modified by Sunyi, 11:08 AM 4/18/2004]

 

That make sense. The balancer and damper are included. Because this is a kit from a single supplier, I would expect the rods to clear the cam. CHECK! The balance should be OK. If you know someone who has had a balance problem with the same kit, have yours checked. But don't spend any money to alter the balance until you verify the rod to cam Clarence and all other clearances. There is no point in grinding on balanced parts, only to pay to have them rebalanced.

*I* think you ought to wait and see, on the pan. Otherwise, you can play it safe and order one.

RACE ON!!!

 

I have a 85 that I built to 383. I had to relieve the pan mounting rail on the block next to the oil filter a little to get the counterweight to clear. The pan also needs to be clearanced at that point. I used a torch to heat the pan and a little creative hammer work to bump out the pan to clear. I used a Scat crank and H beam rods with no problem clearing the cam. Got bad info from a Summit rep. This assembly would have balanced internally with no problem, but was told to balance it externally. That cost more for parts and a lot of work that didn't need to be. The above info from the other guys is right on and you'll love the 383, well worth it.

 

Olman: Thanks for the tip whith the pan.

Good to have it confirmed that it needs to be clearenced if i clearence the pan rail, although it speaks for it self.

Too bad though that i did not order a new aftermarket pan while i was at it.
Well well, looks like i have to do the same whith my pan as you did.

Andrew

 

Just finished clearencing my block and i looks like this:
As you see, I did not have to clearence as mutch as 89 Paul in Cal.
My block was diffretly cast than his, whith clearence slots.
When i did the clearencing, I used the old rods because big ends were slightly different (requierd more clearence) than the new ones.
I did this to be on the safe because I know that I will have a larger clearence whith the new rods.

Found an interesting detail, the letters "Corvette" was stamped into the block.
Did GM cast a block especially for Corvette?

While i was at it , I grinded the oil return holes in the rear of the engine.








[Modified by Sunyi, 11:55 AM 4/23/2004]


[Modified by Sunyi, 11:56 AM 4/23/2004]

 

When I opened the package containing the rotary assembly, I found this note:




Do you think that i need to rebalance the crank, or will it be ok as it is?


[Modified by Sunyi, 2:00 PM 4/21/2004]

 

Sunyi, that card is a balance card that is filled out when the crank etc is balanced. Keep it for future reference if balance problems should arise. Looks to me like you are good to go as far as balancing is concerned. :cheers:

 

Ok, thanks.
That saves me about 250$ in balancing kosts. :)


[Modified by Sunyi, 11:58 AM 4/23/2004]

 

As far as clearancing the block to clear the crank counterweights, not all cranks have the same size counterweights. The 383 I'm putting together right now with a Callies crank does not need ANY clearancing for the crank at all....only for rod bolts. With Oliver stroker rods and a BIG cam (well, big for a street car) there are no interference issues with the cam and rod bolts.