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Guys, I'm having a problem with my '87 roadster 4+3 that I hope you can help with. I have a new cat-back exhaust, but other than that, the car is stock with less than 50,000 miles. The problem is that the car will be driving along fine, and then it will suddenly stutter and the "Check Engine" light will come on - then, if I give the car some gas, it will stutter badly and continue to run poorly.
I changed the Mass Airflow Sensor, and it didn't seem to help the problem. I then changed the pigtail, with my thought being that the connection to the MAS was faulty - this didn't help, either. The only thing that seems to make the problem go away is if I pull over and turn the engine off and leave it off for about a minute - it will then run better for a while until it stutters, the "Check Engine" light comes on again, and I have to go through the same routine.
without knowing the code, I am betting fuel filter or pump.
to check the code, you take a paperclip and jump pins A & B. turn ON the car, but DO NOT START IT!!!! That will set the computer into diag mode.
The SES light will flash:
<flash> pause <flash><flash>
<flash> pause <flash><flash>
<flash> pause <flash><flash>
thats a code 12. It means you are in the computer.
then the error code will flash - 5 times... so for a code 33 (MAF) it will flash
<flash><flash><flash> pause <flash><flash><flash> Long pause
<flash><flash><flash> pause <flash><flash><flash> Long pause
<flash><flash><flash> pause <flash><flash><flash> Long pause
<flash><flash><flash> pause <flash><flash><flash> Long pause
<flash><flash><flash> pause <flash><flash><flash> Long pause
If there is another code, it will flash 12, then the next code. if no more codes are stored, it will simply flash the only code, again.
Report back to us what the codes say. :thumbs:
oh, if the MAF was bad, you will have to clear the code. Disconnect the battery and wait 1 minute. Reconnect, codes cleared.
This has been a problem with mine for the last several months. I have also changed the MAF, Maf relays, O2 sensor, TPS, AIT, fuel filter. It leaves no codes for me. If I find the problem I'll let you know, you do the same...PLEEEZE. I have the Dr. coming this week. I thrown all the money at it that I'm going to. Time for a PRO. Let you know.. If you want an idea of the frustration check previous post in my sig.
It sounds like the PROM or ECM. My brothers vette did the same thing, it turned out to be the ECM computer. You must pull the codes. If you pull a ECM code, It might be the PROM chip in the ECM. When the auto parts sells you the ECM they dont give you a new PROM chip. You have to use your own. If your computer codes a ECM code, I would change the PROM out of the ECM first, Then if that doesnt help, change out the ECM. You will have a extra PROM for future trouble shooting. ECM is usually the last thing you will replace but if your computer is telling you that that is the problem then its probably the problem. Good luck :smash:
I regularly disconnect the battery, so that doesn't help the problem. I do have a hypertech chip that I installed over 10 years ago - the chip is the one that allows a 160 degree thermostat. I think the code 51 means that I have a bad ECM/EPROM. If I replace the EPROM though, I'd have to get one that is compatible with my 160 thermostat. Where exactly is the ECM located? Any ideas on what the next step should be? Thanks.
33 is MAF Sensor (High Voltage)
34 is MAF Sensor (Low Voltage)
51 is PROM Error
Looks like either your ECU or PROM (or both) are bad.
Since you can turn it off and wait a few minutes and it starts running ok again for a while, it sounds like all is ok as long as it's in open loop. The problems start when it goes closed loop.
I'd stick the hypercrap PROM in (temporarily) and see if that fixes it. If not, try to borrow an ECU and swap it in.
The ECU is located behind the hush panel on the passenger side. Not too diffucult to get to.
Why do you regularly disconnect your battery? That could be what lunched the ECU if that is indeed the problem.
I have a slow drain on the battery somewhere in the system, and I don't drive the car everyday, so I disconnect it when I leave it for more than a few days. Any suggestions on other PROMs that would work with the 160 thermostat (I don't really want to have to swap out the thermostat with a new chip, as well)?
You don't have to swap the thermostat to put the 160 degree chip in temporarily. Your cooling fan will run more than it should but that won't hurt anything during a temporary swap.
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