Alright, it is almost go time and I want to make sure I can do this before I order the parts. I will be replacing the roller rockers in my 1990 to a 1.6 ratio and I have a few questions:
1. What tools will I need? I have a Craftsman 96 piece tool set with a basic line-up of sockets both standard and metric. A set of torx bits. A torque wrench. Gasket scraper.
2. What is the estimated time it should take a beginner to do this?
3. While I am in there, should I replace the springs with LT4 springs and replace the valve seals? The engine has 80,000 miles on it. If I should replace the springs/seals will I need any additional tools? I have read about a valve lifter tool. Is that something I would need?

Thanks for any input.
I will also be posting a seperate question about headers in another post reguarding the same type of questions. If you can also help with that, please head on over to that post. Thanx!!!

P.S. Here is a list of the parts I am ordering. Is this all I will need? (springs and valve seals exluded)
ARP-134-7103 - Chevrolet: 262-400; Pontiac: 326-455, chromemoly, rocker arm stud kit
CCA-1305-16 - ROCKER ARMS RLLR 1.6 7/16 SBC
CCA-4800-8 - Chevrolet: 262-400, 5/16 in. diameter pushrods, raised, guideplates
CCA-7808-16 - Chevrolet: 1987-up 305/350, OEM hydraulic roller cam, 5/16 in. diameter, 7.195 in. long, pushrods


[Modified by C490Vette, 12:07 AM 4/26/2004]

 

You will also need a little light assembly lube (CC) and a set of Fel Pro valve cover gaskets (AutoZone).

You will need an allen wrench set as well as some box end wrenches for valve lash adjustment.

You will need some PB Blaster to spray onto the EGR tube bolts the night before removing it.

You can get by without replacing valve springs but I installed a set of CC 981 springs and a new set of GM upper & lower valve seals. If you do the springs and plan on reving that L98 close to the 6k RPM range toss the stock oil shedders that were atop the stock springs and install Ti retainers & 10deg locks.

To do springs & seals you will need:
- a valve spring compressor, I like the type that clamps onto the valve spring,
- vernier calipers to measure spring height,
- a variety shim pack (CC),
- two feet of nylon rope to fit into the spark plug hole (or compressed air),
- a long screw driver to use as a TDC detector,
- a magnetic wand to pull the keepers out of the retainers,
- a small hammer to rap on the retainer to free the keepers.

I also suggest three long bolts that fit the crank shaft pulley holes to use as leverage to manually turn the crankshaft in either direction.

To do the RRs, studs, guides & push rods is a morninng's work; throw in valve springs and give it a day or maybe a weekend if you don't have compressed air.

If you are wondering how the nylon rope works here it is. Since I didn't have compressed air to hold up the valves I disconnected the battery + lead, removed all spark plugs, inserted the long screw driver into a spark plug hole, turned the crank till the piston was near TDC (screw driver handle wiggled), worked a length of nylon rope into the spark plug hold to fill the cylinder atop the piston, rotated the carnk till the piston it tight and then released the valve springs. The most valve drop I experienced was maybe 1/8"-1/4" with this method, which made changing springs & seals a fairly easy process.

Changing springs & seals realy isn't a tough job and I would recommend it while you are in there. Even if you don't use Ti retainers (they aren't cheap) install new 7deg keepers to minimize the chance of a dropped valve.

 

Be sure to really do your homework with the search engine before tearing into those valves. Yes you do need the LT4 springs.