Has anyone attempted to use this on their vette, and if so which heater hose did you cut into. Being that this has a reverse flow water system, I'm sure its a diiferent hose than normal flow V-8's. My vette is a '94 LT1.

 

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You seem to be talking about two things. The Flush "N Fill Kit is the thingie that you cut into your heater hose. Super Flush is a cleaner (dilute sodium citrate) that you use in your cooling system

First, the Flush "N Fill Kit.

I used one on my 96 LT-4 which looks to be plumbed the same as your LT-1, but later took it off.

They do a credible job if you aren't going to do the job really well.

I have used them for over 20 years and have had them on individual cars for over 10 years with no problems.

That said, they don't do a very good job compared to filling the cooling system, running the car and draining the radiator -AND- block 2 or 3 times. They are way better than just draining the radiator, but a Corvette is worthy of more than standard Flush "N Fill kit.

As a test, I flushed my LT-4 with the Flush "N Fill kit until it ran clear, after using Super Flush. Then I drained the block. I got more dirty coolant out of the bottom of the block, even after using the flusk kit. One of the problems with the flush kit is that it doesn't do a very hard flush. With the restrictor on the adaptor, it is doing good to move 3 gpm of water. By comparison, the water pump moves up to 100 gpm when you redline your engine. The flush kit isn't going to knock anything loose that the water pump won't knock loose. Also, loose crud tends to sit ion low places. The Flush 'N fill won't move all if it out the radiator fill cap. It's like trying to flush your toilet through your roof. The big chunks would stay in the bottom.

Read Strick's instructions on making your own flush kit that combine the best of a Flush "N Fill and block drain: https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=222&TopicID=2

I modified Strick's procedure a bit and adapted a filler hose to the piece that fits in the radiator cap opening so the water and crud flows downhill and out the block drain valves. Like plumber friend once told me, chit just naturally flows downhill, don't try to fight it.

Whatever you do, his Y- hose arrangement is bleeping terrific. It makes flushing your block so easy, you'll do it right :)

Philisophically, I also don't like the idea of introducing more potential failure points into my Corvette cooling system so didn't leave the Flush "N Fill in the car. That was easy for me, because I also replaced all the heater and cooling system hoses as preventative maintenance.

BTW, the hose you need to cut into for the kit is the heater inlet hose (p/n 10157913), with that funny looking black plastic lump in it) lists for $55 at the dealer and the aftermarket replacements don't fit right :( It's less than $30 at GMPartsdirect.

I also used the Super Flush chemical. It's relatively mild and didn't do any damage that I'm aware of, but don't put too much faith in my statistical sample of one.




[Modified by xs650, 11:32 AM 4/26/2004]

 

Thanks for the priceless information. I really appreciate your detailed information. It's a good thing I didn't go ahead and cut any hoses this weekend. I will most definately follow your advise. Removing the knock sensors without damgeing them makes me a little nervous, but I'll get over that. Take Care!

 

I've had my knock sensors in and out at least three times. Be sure your socket fits and that it is on straight and you shouldn't have a problem. They have some sealant on the treads from the factory so shouldn't be stuck.

IIRC, a 19mm socket was the best fit, a 3/4 socket is only 0.002 bigger so would work the same if I'm right about 19mm.

The threaded holes in the block were 1/4 pipe on mine.

Don't add sealant to the threads (the manual sez not too) and use the recommended torque when you re-install them. 14 lb-ft on a 1996 LT-1/LT-4.