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I just changed my spark plugs yesterday and my car is running terrible now. It was acting up before but not like this. It just needed some time to warm up. Now, the car is kinda shaking and not getting full power on WOT. Almost sounds like it wants to die cause its flooded at the idle.
I checked the wires, and they seem to be all on right. I'm thinking I may have accidentally switched two of the wires up. How can I tell? Following the wires on the driver side is a PITRA.
I had to wring out each wire one by one with a DMM till I found the two that were switched.
Just pull a wire off a spark plug and pull the other end from the dist and check resistance. If any pair are swapped those two wires will show infinite impedence.
I just changed my spark plugs yesterday and my car is running terrible now. It was acting up before but not like this. It just needed some time to warm up. Now, the car is kinda shaking and not getting full power on WOT. Almost sounds like it wants to die cause its flooded at the idle.
I checked the wires, and they seem to be all on right. I'm thinking I may have accidentally switched two of the wires up. How can I tell? Following the wires on the driver side is a PITRA.
You don't have much choice but to trace each wire to find out which one is switched.
The only other things I can think of is that you cracked one of the plugs during installation and/or the plug gaps weren't set properly.
My guess is you got a wire swapped. That will make it run like poopy. Also, you could have cracked and insulator but again, I wouldn't think it would run that bad, especially wanting to die at idle.
Really sounds like one or more wires is on the wrong plug.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Re: Spark plug wire problem? (Lord Odin)
I had to do a complete cam change as a local "expert" told me I had adjusted one valve too tight after my engine rebuild. He told me that I had "worn a lobe down" and needed a new cam and lifters! So I pulled the cam and put in the new one along with the new lifters. I then pulled the plugs so I could turn the engine over easier for the valve adjustment process and WTF - one of the
plug gaps was completely closed - thus the crappy idle! I must have bumped the plug or dropped it. So much for listening for a danm Chrysler mechanic!! :boxing
Damn, I'm even getting popping sounds. I had one of my roommates give it a little gas while I listened to the exhaust and its popping. You can notice it more on the low end but its all throughout the power band.
Firing order for lt1 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2
drivers side from front of car is 1 3 5 7
Pass side of car front head light 2 4 6 8
:smash:
:iagree: I'd check the firing order and if that doesn't do it (bet it will) then plugs then wires. After the firing order is correct, if you still have a problem, try pulling one wire at a time with the car running and see if you've got a dead hnole and start there. Good luck :seeya
[SNIP]Plug gaps wouldn't make it run that badly.[/SNIP]
As in Corvetteronw's post, a completely closed plug gap will, in effect, have the engine running as if on 7 or fewer cylinders - depending on how many plugs are closed.
On the other end of the spectrum, if the gap(s) are set much too wide, the spark will arc to ground rather than jump the wide gap.
Spark, like water, will seek the path of least resistance which could be one of the runners, the valve cover or exhaust manifold/header, etc. Wide gaps increase the resistance dramatically and the spark will try to find a way to ground if it can, rather that jump the wide gap.
I checked the wires and the passenger side is fine. That only leaves two wire possibilities that could have gotten switched. That would be wires 5 and 7 on the plugs. I never touch the wires on the opti. I'll give that a try when the car cools down.
How in the world can I check the firing order? :confused:
The wires should be fine on the opti end. I posted that so you would know which wire went to which cylinder. The firing order is not of any importance to you at this point. I'm guessing you have aftermarket wires because the stock ones have the numbers printed on the insulation.
If the wires are ok, I would suspect the plugs. If you dropped one during installation, it becomes questionable. Good luck.
From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
Re: Spark plug wire problem? (Lord Odin)
The cylinder(s) not firing will remain cold. Touch the exhaust manifold by each cylinder to see which one is cold thus not firing.
Also, start the engine in a completely dark garage (at night would be best) and look for leaks from the wires/spark plugs to ground. You will have to let your eyes get adjusted to the dark. It takes about 5 minutes. This is absolutely amazing because you will see a carona around the wires, which is normal, then lots of small sparks coming out of the wires. Be careful of the spinning belts and pulleys.