C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

U Joint holding strap tork spec

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Old May 7, 2004 | 07:12 AM
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Default U Joint holding strap tork spec

My Haynes manual says 150FT #, I know thats not right. Does anyone know the right amount?
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Old May 7, 2004 | 07:37 AM
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Default Re: U Joint holding strap tork spec (cshuman)

You mean the 4 small bolts (8mm head) holding the straps over the U-jonts? If I remember right they are somewhere around 20 ft-lbs. Not much at all.

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Old May 7, 2004 | 10:25 AM
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Default Re: U Joint holding strap tork spec (cshuman)

The first thing I woud do is burn that Haynes manual. My Helms says, 22-30 foot pounds. You didn't check the spec for the pinion flange nut did you? My Helms calls for 200-220 ft lbs, there.

RACE ON!!!
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Old May 7, 2004 | 10:28 AM
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Default

Definitely not 150 ft/lb thats for sure. :D
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Old May 7, 2004 | 11:27 AM
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Default Re: (scorp508)

I'm not even comfortable with the high end of the Helms spec. That is a lot of torque for such a tiny bolt. It doesn't transfer any of the engine torque, it merely keeps the cap in the yoke. I just use a standard, shortish, box end wrench and make it "tight". Loctite is a good idea. The only reason for the tightness is to be sure it doesn't back out. The factory bolts come with a thread locking compound on them.

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Old May 7, 2004 | 06:04 PM
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Default Re: (CFI-EFI)

Thanks for the info, 20 sounds about right. They didn't feel like they were on any tighter than that. I torked them to 20 and used locktight. I'm sure they will be fine. It sure makes a difference when you get that bad u joint replaced. One I pulled out was just dust. I checked them on the car before removing the half shaft and it didn't look like it was bad so I thought it was the rusted spindle that everyones talked about. My spindle was clean as a whistle but I still put some anti-seize on it. No more clunks when I put it in gear and it actually seems to ride better. One thing I did that worked great was instead of taking the toe adjustment rod loose at the differential housing, I took it loose at the knuckle and it still gave me room to remove the half shaft with the spindle still attached. it was easier to remove the spindle from the half shaft with it off the car. Also I didn't half to worry about the adjustment for the toe. Scorps instructions are great! A picture is worth a 1000 words. Next week I will replace the other side so that all 4 will be new, Spicers of course. :hurray:
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Old May 7, 2004 | 09:29 PM
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Default Re: (CFI-EFI)

Loctite is a good idea. The only reason for the tightness is to be sure it doesn't back out. The factory bolts come with a thread locking compound on them.

Exactly... :iagree: I'd do 20 lbs, and use loctite. Too much torque, and you start stretching the threads, and the bolt siezes up in there if it doesn't break off by then.
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