I need to replace the radiator in my 94. Is this a ridiculously complicated job? Any suggestions as to where I should buy the replacement....

Thanks! :cheers:

 

It is not difficult, just need to be careful manipulating the fiberglass radiator shroud so that you do not crack it like I did. Doooooooooh!.

I recommend a Dewitts radiator. Pretty much a direct fit. Nice workmanship. Seems to work better than the stocker. But I am waiting for it to turn to inferno here is Florida (another couple of weeks) before I pass final judgement.

Good time to replace the hoses while you are at it. I did the water pump at the same time, so hoses were easy to get to. If you are not replacing the pump, getting to those hoses can be a real PITA.

 

The Dewitts is a great ultra high capacity radiator. If you don't have a lot of modifications and/or cooling problems, a high quality stock replacement may better suit your needs. Once you get the old one out, the amount of debris between the old rad and condenser will give you an idea how badly you need a higher capacity radiator. I continue to be amazed at how well the dinky stock radiator performs in a properly maintained cooling system. I have my original, 20 year old radiator, and my engine barely runs over the thermostat opening point.

RACE ON!!!

 

Not complicated at all. Few bolts and the cover comes off. 2 hoses and the radiator slides right out and the new one in. The hardest were the ones on the drivers side. The lower ones I had to get under the car to get to them.

Best advise. Use an air compressor and a soft tooth brush or similar and blow out the rocks, bugs, and sand out of the A/C condensor while the radiator is out.

As for replacement, I also went with the DeWitts. It was drop in except for having to cut one of the rubber spacers (which I hear is now included). (and the requisite more fluid required).

I found the rad on the internet while searching for "fluidyne corvette radiator" which was my original choice.

For the price, in my mind, one can never have enough cooling capacity. If you decide to stay stock, be wary of non-factory replacements. There are a few threads on the forum as to why.

Best of luck.

Scott

 

If you want to stay with the OEM type, check out http://www.radiators.com. The C4 $172 delivered to my door the day after I order it. Name brand OEM type radiator that fit and looked like the original.

I bought one for my 1996 LT4, but found out nobody makes one without the automatic transmission cooler. So I returned it and got the original one fixed. It had a split end tank and I fould a local shop that would replace it.
Yes, the OEM is small, but who cares what size it is if it keeps it cool. I am sure GM designed them to keep stock engines cool enough with some reserve capacity.

By the way it gets pretty darn hot in Texas, and the OEM kept it at 205 degrees with the A/C on.

That was 2 years ago. The

 

I am not aware of any of the replacements coming without a trans cooler. That is called, "part number consolidation". They only have to make, keep on hand, and inventory half the part numbers, that way. If you have a manual, you just don't hook up the cooler lines you don't have. Last I checked, I could help arrange for a stock replacement genuine Modine for $128.00 to fit 1984-1989, and $173.00 for 1990, up, C4s. Delivered, next day, anywhere in the Continental 48 states.

RACE ON!!!

 

I am wondering why you think it needs replaced.

 

Thanks for the help everybody!! :cheers:

vert - it's got a hole in it.....the previous owner neglected the cooling system pretty bad. When I got the car it was low on coolant and very contaminated. The coolant was real dirty looking and cloudy enough to pass as skim milk! I just don't understand some people...... :mad

 

While we are talking about radiator's, could someone give me some advise on what I could do to either prolong the life of my existing radiator and/or clean out some of the debris that may be inthere, but I don't know where to
look or how to remove it. Thanks, I'm really a novice when it comes to working on my car, but I want to learn. So, if you don't mind, please speak slowly so that I can understand your advice and directions. :auto:

 

The hardest part was getting at those 6 screws, 3 per side in the front of the shroud. If you remove the horn you can access the bolts easier by going under the frame.

If I had to replace my radiator again I'd go with one with a built in oil cooler.

 

:iagree: since nobody actually described the process, here goes:

Drain radiator,disconnect all the hoses, don't forget the sma;; hose at the top on the passenger side.
If you want the absolute simplest way, disconnect the A/C, then you can pull the whole shebang out at once and it makes getting the six screws described above much easier to get at, and also easier to clean everything.
Or, start removing every nut you see attached to the upper shroud. Remove the nuts holding the fans to the upper and lower shroud, push the fans back towards the engine.
On the drivers side, remove the horn and air pump, then you will be able to access two of the three screws holding the upper and lower shrouds together. On the passenger side, you should also be able to reach two of the three screws.

What I did to remove the last screw on each side was pry up one side till I could see it and then put a wrnech on it and remove. If you have some of those trick "Click Wrenches" it makes the job 100% easier.

Once you have all the nuts and bolts out, the upper shoroud should be able to move freely, but it will take some careful work to get around the A/C lines without cracking it(like I did).

Once you get the upper shroud off, you can then remove the radiator(held in by gravity) and then clean the plenum area.

Now while you are thinking about it, the clips that those six screws went into, pull them out and reverse them so that you can reinstall teh screws from under the car. If you look under the front of the car above the spoiler, you can see where they are and how it will be much easier to replace them that way.

Of course if you decided to remove the whole unit as one piece, it doesn't matter.

Installation is the reverse, and don't forget to bleed the system.