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What's the best way to pull the valve out of the master cylinder sleeve?
I am able to insert a flat head screw drive into the blue "cats-eye" cap over the valve. I also tried inserting a hooked tweezer to fit into the cats-eye in an effort to pull it out. Once I noticed the blue cats-eye cap starting to flex I put the brakes on doing that.
Re: DRM Bias Spring Removal Help needed (chucks88)
Chuck,
So doing that DRM Bias Spring was just THAT easy?? (Aside from draining brake fluid, and all that nonsense.) If it was, then I better order my damn spring ASAP! :yesnod:
Re: DRM Bias Spring Removal Help needed (TIMSPEED)
Chuck,
So doing that DRM Bias Spring was just THAT easy?? (Aside from draining brake fluid, and all that nonsense.) If it was, then I better order my damn spring ASAP! :yesnod:
Tim, its really easy, aside from the pain in the azz that you have to bleed the brakes after you're done....Make sure you get yours from doug rippie direct instead of ecklers or corvette central....it is only $12 instead of 19.99 or 29.99 in the overtax catalogs. :rolleyes: When you get it you'll think "man, why did i spend 12 dollars on this spring, but the difference that thing makes is amazing. :hat
Re: DRM Bias Spring Removal Help needed (Wheelman)
Tim, its really easy, aside from the pain in the azz that you have to bleed the brakes after you're done....Make sure you get yours from doug rippie direct instead of ecklers or corvette central....it is only $12 instead of 19.99 or 29.99 in the overtax catalogs. :rolleyes: When you get it you'll think "man, why did i spend 12 dollars on this spring, but the difference that thing makes is amazing. :hat
:iagree:
I really had no problems getting the new spring and snap ring in either. Just use a socket and vise much like you do when pressing in new u-joints.
I just got back from a little drive. The rear doesn't seem to pull up as much when I hammer the brakes. And it does feel to stop a little quicker. Well worth it (I got mine as a Christmas present :thumbs: )