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why cant i unhook the two wires comin from the key switch take my multimeter get the resistence from the two wires then make me a resistor of the same vaule will that work for my 87 vette 3 time trophy show car winner with lost keys?
There's nothing for you to read at the column base, at the column base it's looking for the resistance of the "KEY" for the module to see. I don't recall anyone ever reporting that the VATS module behind the dash had maybe a label or just a tire crayon marked VATS code but I guess anything is possible and once your that far you could maybe open the VATS module and check the internals for resistance. I've heard and read of that being done, I've certainly never done it.
That VATS module doesn't care that it's a 3 time "trophy winner" ! Buy a key cylinder, rent or borrow a VATS interrogator and move on. If you do a VATS interrogator or build your own resistor packages you can rule out a #1 - not used - saves you 4 minutes!
You could do it this way also. Buy a module here for a requested VATS code and cut a new key with a matching VATS resistance for your new cylinder which BTW will NOT come with a resistance chip. It will only have a mechanical cut. You might want to confirm the number on your module but I'm quite confident in the GM # 1228548
The VATS module compares the resistance of the chip in the key with a resistor in the module. If you buy a random module you won't know which key is required to match it. I wrote an article on the module in my '86 (don't know how many years that module was used):
The VATS module compares the resistance of the chip in the key with a resistor in the module. If you buy a random module you won't know which key is required to match it. I wrote an article on the module in my '86 (don't know how many years that module was used):
There was nothing "RANDOM" about my suggestion in my post with the eBay link. You're buying the resistance of your choice and cutting a key to the mechanical code to match the cylinder purchase and the resistance of the module that you purchased. Nothing random about it!
It matters NOT what you wrote it's the CHOICE of the purchase - read again!
If you're attempting to direct the "recent" poster to the internal diagnostics that's fine but your implying that I suggested a "random" purchase. I did NOT.
There was nothing "RANDOM" about my suggestion in my post with the eBay link. You're buying the resistance of your choice and cutting a key to the mechanical code to match the cylinder purchase and the resistance of the module that you purchased. Nothing random about it!
Sorry, my error. I didn't realize that the eBay seller was selling "to order" by resistor code. I didn't read down the page where he makes that clear.
I appreciate what you are saying about the effectiveness of the VATS system, but I don't really leave the car anywhere and being an 86, I think it has lost its real theft appeal. While I am sure it is still possible for someone to steal it, I am more concerned with it stranding me like it is doing now.
Anyway, my plan to bypass the starter enable relay won't work because VATS also disables the fuel pump. So next step for me is to determine whether it is the relay or VATS that is interrupting the power, later today or this weekend, I will see what has power at the relay and go from there. Thanks for the tips on checking the tumbler contacts.
Dude it's a Vette it never loses it's theft appeal. If it doesn't have it's VATS enabled it's an easy target. Check your tumbler contacts, and while your at it, check your key being an 86 there's a good chance your key is just worn out.
My first car was an 85 Camaro with the crappy 2.8 V6 and a slush box with no VATS system. I caught a guy trying to break in to steal it (it had the old factory cassette radio so he certainly wasn't trying to get in for that) once. Do you think that same guy wouldn't have tried his hand for a Vette? The car was already 20 years old (same age as it's driver) at the time.
Age does not impact desirability.
My 96 Bird had an intermittent issue with VATS, and it turned out to be a worn key. I had another spare made, and switched to using my spare and never had issues again. It's much better to fix it than to just bypass it in my opinion.
Last edited by Aaron Keating; Apr 18, 2013 at 10:49 AM.
Probably because it would kind of defeat the purpose of having the resistors in the first place if every tom dick and harry knew how to bypass it just sticking a resistor in the wire leads
Someone -does- know the values I've seen them pop up on a Camaro forum once but it's not exactly wide spread.
Why don't they publish the exact ohm values for each resistance key number, what is it-- some state secret?
Bon Air
The VATS resistance is maybe one of the most publicized pieces of information on the Internet. If you haven't "stumbled" upon it I'd guess you just haven't looked! Try just one more time!
In the thread you started regarding your brothers situation I mentioned the easiest three methods for you to accomplish his key situation. You've apparently done the dealer request and the VATS information wasn't included with the information supplied by GM. It was worth the attempt. You've apparently got the mechanical code now. Have you had the code cut on a "work key" to check the mechanical cuts? If not then you should ask for the code to be cut on a VATS "work key" and confirm the cylinder hasn't been replaced already. The "work key" is inexpensive. You could use the "work key" and resistor combinations to do the checks one code at a time. You can eliminate the code 1 - that was a single year usage and your '96 can't possibly have that.
It might be cruel to make you look any further than you already likely have:
Before you start you need to understand that before each "new attempt" there's a "four minute" rest required before the next resistance check of the system. Try one, 4 minute break, then try the next! Patience!
Those are actually 1% values. You can't get those exact values in 5% tolerance.
Most people combine two 5% values to get close to the 1% value. The VATS module has some leeway built into it.
The resistors that I suggested have NOTHING to do with what is to be accomplished here. Pick any resistance value from the chart and in many/some instances two or more might likely be needed in a series to accomplish a value that fits the "window" of the values excepted by the system. The 5% is the value +/- of the resistor itself.
You connect the resistors in a "series" and confirm the resistance that you've created with your DMM. Or if using an advertised value you do the same, confirm with your DMM. The resistors I mentioned are the least expensive and more easily sourced locally.
You can buy a package if you like and if you have the time:
I had problems with VATS on my 96 Impala SS back in the 90's. One key would work sometimes and the other key would always work. I found a slight difference in resistance between the keys. I researched the schematic and found I could unplug a VATS connector under the steering column, leave it disconnected and splice in the "good" resistance value resistors into the harness. It has worked well since.
I also can relate to the VATS working as a theft deterrent. I had a '90 Camaro with VATS. The car was broken into and the column was broken twice, but the car wouldn't start and they abandoned their theft efforts.
I also had a Caprice 9C1 without VATS that was stolen.
In short the resistor or bypass method works, but assess what kind of theft protection you need or want.
I had problems with VATS on my 96 Impala SS back in the 90's. One key would work sometimes and the other key would always work. I found a slight difference in resistance between the keys. I researched the schematic and found I could unplug a VATS connector under the steering column, leave it disconnected and splice in the "good" resistance value resistors into the harness. It has worked well since.
I also can relate to the VATS working as a theft deterrent. I had a '90 Camaro with VATS. The car was broken into and the column was broken twice, but the car wouldn't start and they abandoned their theft efforts.
I also had a Caprice 9C1 without VATS that was stolen.
In short the resistor or bypass method works, but assess what kind of theft protection you need or want.
Good luck.
I don't believe that "eliminating VATS" is a solution for anything and all of my comments to both the OP, how to purchase a VATS module that can be identified and the later to the "tag-along" poster who lost his only key how to ID the resistance code of the car and theoretically do a replacement key of the correct resistance. VATS accomplishes it's intended purpose quite well! Your experiences are a "testimonial" so to speak of it's "worth"!!! Don't eliminate it "FIX-IT". I've always stressed the fix!