Ok after studying the electrical diagrams for the chime unit in the car I decided that it must have been the pink/black wire (Switched 12v) on terminal D2 that was failed. For those of you that missed the other thread the stupid ding ding ding ding ding was going off with the headlights on and the ignition in the run position. Talk about annoying!

This is the wire that tells the chime that the ignition is in the run position and not to be audible when the other factors are correct that would normally make it ding at you with the ignition off. Those being headlights on, or key in ignition & left door open, or driver seatbelt undone for 4-8 seconds at startup.

So... I pulled the bezels out and the idiot light panel out. The chime is right behind that and is a blue box about oh I don't know 3"x2"x1" with a connector on the right side of it. Yanked it out and put a test lamp on it. Yep... D2 is dead with no 12v at key on. Blah!

So I figured the hell with it I'll pull the chime and deal with it later. I hate the thing anyways and a silent car would be nice. So I button the car back up and take it for a ride to wally world to pickup some cough drops for a sore throat I have. Things I notice..


1. Overdrive will not engage (O/D light does turn on in the dash), was working before.
2. ABS light on immediately at startup without even moving the car, never did that before.
3. Courtesy lights not turning off immediately with door shut. Appears to take the 30ish seconds for light shutoff with key out you'd normally get.
4. Voltometer is highly irregular. Down in the 10s at idle instead of 13.8-14.1 like usual. Not sure if this is anything yet as I was sitting there with the headlights on doing some other troubleshooting to make sure I was right about the wire and could have drained some power form the battery.

What the hell! Arrrgh. :banghead: I know that that pink/black wire on D2 on the chime goes back to splice S208 behind the center IP panel. I'm willing to bet all those other things tie into that splice as well and I've got a break in that line somewhere between that splice and whatever one before it there is. So far it looks like all of these things are part of the GAUGES fuse. Looks like it is time for me to hit the diagrams some more. And I thought I'd be at the track this week. :(

I guess this is what I get for replacing a failed brake booster and being under the dash with wrenches. I must have just hit something enough to cause a break. Sheesh, who needs power brakes! This outta be fun as hell to find. God I hate electrical problems.

RichB, I can already hear you laughing. :)

 

I hate, hate, hate, hate, electrical problems. :beatdeadhorse: I think you get my point.

 

Well I have done some research this morning digging through more diagrams. So far every single thing "wrong" has a few commonalities thank god!

Terminal I1 on Ignition Switch ---Feeds--> Splice 205 ---Feeds--> GAUGES Fuse (Among many other things) ---Feeds--> Splice 208 ---> Feeds everything wrong!

So... at least I have a path to trace back. Working on the brake booster under the car I would have thought that I somehow mangled the pink wire on the ignition switch. Makes sense right? The only other problem is that it feeds that Splice 205 splits that line into 4 different outputs which feeds a whole crap-ton of stuff!

1. VATS Fuse
2. INJ1 Fuse, INJ2 Fuse, ECM IGN Fuse
3. GAGES Fuse, TURN/BU Fuse, CRUISE Fuse,CLSTR Fuse
4. EST

So lets see. The car runs, so I know that 1 and 2 are working. I get no EST code so 4 must be working. That narrows it down some.

Whats left is....

GAGES Fuse: Definitely some stuff NOT working here.
TURN/BU Fuse: Turn signals and backup lights work.
CRUISE Fuse: Didn't try it.
CLSTR Fuse: Cluster works fine.

Taking a look at the GAGES fuse we see that it feeds splice 208 which operates probably signalhandedly the most devices out of any splice in the car. FIGURES!!

Heater and A/C Programmer
Heater and A/C Control Assembly
LH Vanity Mirror Light
RH Vanity Mirror Light
Defogger Relay
Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid
Courtesy Light Delay Timer
Header Map Light
Low Coolant Module
Module Relay
TCC/Cruise Brake Switch
Audio Alarm Relay
Tell Tale Assembly
ABS Module
Alternator Regulator
Splice 109

Splice 109 Contains
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Solenoid (Disabled in my car)
Overdrive Relay
AIR Select/Switching Valve (Disabled in my car)
AIR Divert Valve (Disabled in my car)

So, it looks like I have a big checklist of stuff to run through after checking the GAGES fuse to see if it is somehow only partially burned through. I saw the low coolant light come on (this is normal, I need a new radiator cap) very dimly. The voltmeter also would go from 10.8 to 13.5 or more in the blink of an eye. Thats not normal. That must mean that S208 is getting "some" power. I wonder if the line is crimped somewhere.

Did I mention I hate electrical stuff? :lol:


[Modified by scorp508, 12:46 PM 5/25/2004]


[Modified by scorp508, 12:58 PM 5/25/2004]

 

WOW, Scorp. What a PIA!!!

Jake

 

Great news. I just had some time to go check things out. It was just the GAGES fuse! Thank god I checked that first before diving into anything else. The splice locations didn't make sense as I did no work near any of them.

:hurray: :hurray:

Started her up and all was good. I then removed some old wiring that was no longer needed and cleaned things up under the driver's dash side. Somehow something must have just touched enough to blow the fuse. Everything works now. :D