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My 88 convertible won't start; no solenoid click, no lights dimming; happened twice and would not start until next day (would not start after VATS timeout period - assuming it was the VATS); now won't start again.
Things checked or done:
Cleaned/dried key and tried back-up key; confirmed fully charged battery; flat-bedded it to nearby dealer (since I was about to leave town on business) -$247 waste, dealer tech found no problem and car started next day and started and ran well over next week.
Checked continuity through key cylinder lock contacts with (resistor pellet) key inserted, (checked by disconnecting the 2-wire lead for the VATS) - OK.
To avoid further problems, installed VATS switchable By-pass of correct key resistance; checked By-pass operation, car started several times in both the normal VATS and By-pass modes.
Problem re-appeared, car would not start.
Re-checked VATS By-pass connections - OK.
Checked starter, jumper form batt positive to solenoid S terminal, solenoid engaged and starter turned engine OK.
So where are we? Ignition switch, wiring harness? Any suggestions?
Re: May not be another VATS problem (Tim in St. Louis)
The next time it won't crank, jump the clutch safety switch (gear selector switch if automatic) and also clip a voltmeter on your jumper to ground. There must be 12v on the jumper when you hit crank position on the ign sw or the ign sw is bad, the start enable relay contacts are bad, or the start enable relay is not being closed by the VATS module. If there is 12v on the jumper, then the starter is defective because the clutch/gear sel switch feeds 12 v to the starter solenoid.
Re: May not be another VATS problem (Tim in St. Louis)
Sounds like your lock cylinder. I had the same problem on my 92 and thought it was the vats system. I was having a new top put on and the shop where I had it called and clamied it would not start. Well, it turns out that the lock cylinder on the steering column had gone bad. Had it replaced and have not had any trouble since.