This summer I want to upgrade the suspension so I can start hitting the track and not get embarrassed.

Currently I have a worn FE1 setup, all stock.

I have QA1 12-way adjustable shocks on the way to replace the dead factory shocks.

Next, I was thinking about adding some new sway bars from Vette Brakes. I was thinking about getting the 32mm up front, and either the 26 or 24mm in the rear. I have heard people like the 24mm better. Fabbing my own camber brace and rear cage is also on the list.

What would be a good next step after that? Vette Brakes has a lot of nice goodies, but I am not sure what I would actually benifit from being an occasional parking lot racer, but mostly crusing the freeway.

My goal is to have a tight handling Vette that will perform well at the limits. Right now I am afraid to even test the limits because it gets so unsettled too easily on uneven surfaces.

Next is brakes.... :boxing

 

You can stiffen up the sway bars noticibly by installing poly graphite bushings; if you install larger sway bars be careful to maintain the stiffness ratio between them so as to not mess up the over/under steer characteristics. I think the bushing change will get you improved handling you want, once you get the other handling issues attended.

The usual causes of wander on the highway are:
-low inflation
-improper alignment
-bad tires

Once those issues are resolved tuning your shocks for best performance should get the job done.

 

I completely transformed my 1990 FX3, Z51 car by having the FX3 shocks rebuilt and revalved by Bilstein, lowered the car about an inch, used energy suspension master kit (all bushings except sway bars), Kumho MX tires and a good alignment.

The *black* ES bushings are impregnated with graphite for quieter operation.

I used longer bolts in the rear and for the front made spring spacers out of 3/8" piece of cutting board. I set the rear 1/8" higher, measured at the frame rails.

I run -1.7 degrees camber front and rear. 0 toe front and a little toe in in the rear.

The best advise is to check all your suspension points for worn out items, tie rods, bearings, etc. The C4 has a nice track suspension and with stock parts in good condition is very fun to drive. You should also wait to make suspension changes till you have some seat time, and then make only one change at a time so you can quatify if the change helped.

Most of all, be Safe and Have Fun!!

--steve

 

I forgot about brakes :crazy:

Flush your brake fluid using high quality fluid. I also installed the DRM brake bias spring. I used ATE Super Blue and bought speed bleeders to make the job easy. I was able to flush both back brakes at the same time, same with the front, by myself.

I also use PFC Z-rated brake pads.

 

See my suspension is JUNK. Everything needs to be replaced. It was my thinking if it had to be replaced, might as well upgrade it a bit since some of the upgraded parts are not much more than OE. I want to get it performing well before I do any club racing so I'm not fighting a worn out car.

Also, the suspension tracks fine going stright, it is those hard turns which have bumps in them can be challenging. I know it is mostly the shocks. I will reevaluate things once they are replaced.

Raistlin- thanks for sharing your setup. Do you use those pads on the street too, or is that just for track duty?



[Modified by ninetyfivevette, 12:39 PM 5/28/2004]

 

When the wheels "hop" on rough turns it could be that the dampers (shocks) need to be tweaked to match the spring rates.

For more info on the topic pick up Fred Phun's book "How to Make Your Car Handle" (Amazon). It has some good stuff on measuring spring rate and matching shock damping.

 

they are my 24/7 pads. they are definately a compromise. for me, i leave extra stopping room on the streen when it's cold outside, raining and the brakes are cold. they worked fine at the track, but it was my first time. i've heard they r not great track pads, but for a beginner should be fine. I didn't have any problems with my brakes at Watkins Glenn, it was my cooling system that wasn't up to par. I was pegging both the oil and water temp guages. I assume i was over 300*. It would only take me about 5 laps to peg the temp, but i was really pushing the car.

the pfc z-rated pads also carry a lifetime warrenty when you buy them from autozone. just bring in the worn pads and they'll replace them for free.

you should also check out the autox and roadrace section on the sorvetteforum. there's a sticky thread at the top with a lot of good information for first timers.

oh, i wasn't told to remove the center caps on the wheels and ended up losing one at the track. after i noticed it missing, every one said they always take their's off, oh well, live and learn.

i agree with you on the suspension pieces. most of mine was 120k miles old (now it's 130k+ miles old). I would stay away from changing springs and bars before you go out to the track, but it's easier for me to say that with an earlier model (my stock springs are stiffer).

IMHO you want to adjust the springs and bars to your liking, not neccesarily to what others say is best. setup comes down to what makes *you* faster behind the wheel, which is why you want some seat time (consistant lap times) before you make changes and then make changes one at a time. Remember, don't time your laps at the track, it will void any chance of you claiming you were at a school and not at a race.

--steve

 

Im in the same boat... a worn out FE1. I have been thinkin about Coil Overs from DRM. :yesnod:

 

:lol: I assume that is for insurance purposes... Yeah, I've seen my share of people not paying attention and smacking curbs on the track... AFTER the finish line.

Anyway, yeah, I guess I agree that I do need to wait, but I'll probably need to get a seasoned driver to take my car around the track to know what it needs.

65Z01-
I still have the old shocks on, so the hopping is most certainly related to that.

Victor-
When I talked to QA1, the really did their best to talk me out of going coil-over. You'd have to call them to get the details because I know I'd mess it up, but the general theme is nothing was designed to have loads placed at the shock mounting points, especially in the rear. I know they are just covering themselves because plenty of people run them, but I know the kind of luck I have.

 

Definately let me know how you like the qa1s when you get them on I am interested in going with a set of them myself :smash:

 

QA-1 is right; the damper mountings are NOT designed for the loads that would come from coil-overs. Long-term, you'd be asking for problems.

Raitlin hit on a good point: tires. A set of good tires will have no down-side (as opposed to stiffer bushings, sway bars, shocks, etc.) Also, don't neglect wider wheels, they can make a noticable difference in the handling.
Next, a good competition alignment (fr. & rr. toe, caster, camber) might be an option.
As far as lowering the car, I'm not so sure the benefits of a lower center of gravity offset the change in roll centers. This is more of a "personal preference" thing...
Lastly, its been said before that the best handling "mod" is a good driver's school!
Have fun!

Larry
code5coupe
:seeya

 

i upgraded to full poly bushings, custom bilstein shocks ( 1.5 inches short shafts) z07 springs, 32 solid front bar and 26 mm rear bar. if i were to do it again.... i would probably go with stiff shocks, a 30 or 32 mm front bar and leave the rear stock. My car seems too stiff in the rear and the rear steps out too easy with the 26mm bar. i also dont reccomend upgrading springs unless you are planning on autox'ing. i changed mine for added stability at 175 mph +