Front main seal replacement q's
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,509
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From: Hazel Park MI
Front main seal replacement q's
How do you use the crow's foot tool? Does the flat side face the engine or radiator? I can't get it to work either way, plus there is a metal tube that appears to go into the spring that is in the way. What is it (brake line?), and can I unscrew it from its fitting?
Also, when I get to the seal, any tips on taking it out? And, how will I know if it is not bad? I think the leak is from the front of my intake manifold, but other signs show front main. TIA guys, I'm trying to get her on the road as soon as possible!!
Also, when I get to the seal, any tips on taking it out? And, how will I know if it is not bad? I think the leak is from the front of my intake manifold, but other signs show front main. TIA guys, I'm trying to get her on the road as soon as possible!!
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Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Re: Front main seal replacement q's (jmrl98)
It sounds like you could use a shop manual. http://www.helminc.com What are you trying to use a crows foot on? I can't picture one being useful on that project.
A tube going into the spring??? There is a hydraulic line into the steering rack that can interfere with the forcing screw of the damper puller, if the screw is too long. Use a shorter bolt or simply disconnect the line and be sure to bleed the steering system when you're done.
The seal can be pried out with a screwdriver, or better yet, a seal puller if you have room to maneuver.
You can tell if the seal was bad by the oil on the inside the damper, when you get it off. Check the seal surface of the damper, too. It is common for the seal to wear a groove into the damper. You can buy a repair sleeve or replace the damper to cure that.
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A tube going into the spring??? There is a hydraulic line into the steering rack that can interfere with the forcing screw of the damper puller, if the screw is too long. Use a shorter bolt or simply disconnect the line and be sure to bleed the steering system when you're done.
The seal can be pried out with a screwdriver, or better yet, a seal puller if you have room to maneuver.
You can tell if the seal was bad by the oil on the inside the damper, when you get it off. Check the seal surface of the damper, too. It is common for the seal to wear a groove into the damper. You can buy a repair sleeve or replace the damper to cure that.
RACE ON!!!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 3
From: Hazel Park MI
Re: Front main seal replacement q's (CFI-EFI)
Yeah, believe it or not I have the shop manual, and the tool they recommend is from my understanding what most people call a crow's foot. Power steering line makes sense. The tool kit comes with only 1 big ole screw to use, but I'm getting past the line - the screw is stopping, like it is screwed in, but it is not suppose to screw into anything really. Thanks for the tip on if the seal is bad. Do I need to buy the seal and sleeve kit if bad, of does just the sleeve kit work? Thanks CFI-EFI!! 
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Re: Front main seal replacement q's (jmrl98)
Yeah, believe it or not I have the shop manual, and the tool they recommend is from my understanding what most people call a crow's foot.
When the center bolt (forcing screw) of the puller stops turning, it is against the crank shaft. Continued turning pulls the damper off. That is why it is called a puller. You DO Have the bolt removed from the center of the crankshaft, right?
You are not going to the trouble of pulling the damper with out replacing the seal. It only makes good sense at that point. The repair sleeve is on an "as needed" basis.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 3
From: Hazel Park MI
Re: Front main seal replacement q's (CFI-EFI)
Yep, crank bolt is out. The tool I have is a snap on set, that has metric & standard bolts, with a separate piece that has 4 prongs, shaped with 3 prongs spread in front, and 1 in back - like the foot of a bird. The center has a threaded opening, that this big screw goes into. You stick the separate piece to the damper, use the small bolts to hold it in place, then use the big long screw in the center and turn it out - supposedly. I got it from the auto shop teacher that I work with who is out of town, and after speaking with him, he said I'm not turning it with enough force. I think the tool may not be correct. Do I need a crap load of force to get it out? J-23523 is the tool recommended, and it looks similar to what I have, but not the same. Will any auto parts store have this tool, or just the dealer, or what?
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Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Re: Front main seal replacement q's (jmrl98)
The tool you describe, sure sounds like a puller. If the three bolts pass through the spider (bird's foot) into the damper and the center bolt goes into the center of the crankshaft, I don't see how a different puller could be better. Can you see how it works? With the three bolts screwed into the damper, the forcing screw pulls the spider, fastened to the damper, away from the end of the advancing forcing screw and the crankshaft. A puller is relatively inexpensive, and many parts stores have loaners, but you haven't explained that there is anything wrong with the one you have. It DOES take some effort to pull the damper. If not, you wouldn't need the tool. Good luck, and...
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