Performance Friction or GM stock replacement?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2003
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Performance Friction or GM stock replacement?
I have the J55 option on the car from the factory but getting ready to do a brake job and just wondering your opinions. I don't have the cash to get Brembo or Z06 upgrade so...
Sticking with stock calipers, would you suggest I go with Performance Friction Carbon Metalic pads all around or the Stock GM pads? The guy at Autozone told me the PF-Z pads are great when warm but not when cold so just use the Carbon Metalic.
One more thing, I can order crossdrilled and slotted or just slotted rotors from autozone. Anyone have experience with these rotors? Not sure what brand they are. Should I upgrade to these or stick with stock?
I bought the bias spring and I'm looking for affordable stainless brake lines, (any pointers?)
Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Sticking with stock calipers, would you suggest I go with Performance Friction Carbon Metalic pads all around or the Stock GM pads? The guy at Autozone told me the PF-Z pads are great when warm but not when cold so just use the Carbon Metalic.
One more thing, I can order crossdrilled and slotted or just slotted rotors from autozone. Anyone have experience with these rotors? Not sure what brand they are. Should I upgrade to these or stick with stock?
I bought the bias spring and I'm looking for affordable stainless brake lines, (any pointers?)
Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 648
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As far as the bias spring I just put one in my 85. I did it like this..
I put mine in a new master cylinder before putting it on the car. Helps if you have a sharpy permanent marker (the black cap and gray body) and a snap ring plier. I just put the spring in the piston, snap ring on top with the pliers engaged in the ring & compressed and with the gray end of the marker mashed it down while some one was holding the piston, went right in.
I also bought the Earl's SS Lines, got them from Jeg's for less than 100. They work great, that is if you can break loose the old rubber lines from the hard line connection.
I put mine in a new master cylinder before putting it on the car. Helps if you have a sharpy permanent marker (the black cap and gray body) and a snap ring plier. I just put the spring in the piston, snap ring on top with the pliers engaged in the ring & compressed and with the gray end of the marker mashed it down while some one was holding the piston, went right in.
I also bought the Earl's SS Lines, got them from Jeg's for less than 100. They work great, that is if you can break loose the old rubber lines from the hard line connection.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,022
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From: palm harbor/murphy Fl/NC
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
St. Jude Donor '11, '14
The Auto Zone Z pads are good for street and autoxing. They also have a lifetime return policy. If you do track days and autox. Its the best deal on earth. I use the Earls lines I would use stock rotors unless you think the slotted or drilled look pretty. The bias spring puts a little clamp force on the rears.
Robin
Robin
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: VA
Cruise-In II Veteran
Can I tell ya the autozone dude has no clue what he is talking about. I've been using the PF Z rated 412Z & 413Z pad for years for all year driving to include winter driving in 15F degree weather. Never had a problem issue even when cold. I have been using the same pad for autox events in mid summer heat with no issues. This is a great all around pad even for medium use on track days. If you are really experienced on a road course I'd go with the PF 90? Just keep in mind the better performing PF pads like the 90's will dust more and have less breaking when the pads are cold.
The Z rated pads dust a very little compared to other pads. The trick is to break them in properly like you should with any other pad. I've never had any issue with sqeeling or dust.
The Z rated pads are just slightly better than stock pads. Change you fluid, this will make a big difference if it has not been changed in a few years. I change mine once a year in the spring.
I had the Russell steel brake lines, they were okay. I've heard the Earls are better. The spring does help a little.
The Z rated pads dust a very little compared to other pads. The trick is to break them in properly like you should with any other pad. I've never had any issue with sqeeling or dust.
The Z rated pads are just slightly better than stock pads. Change you fluid, this will make a big difference if it has not been changed in a few years. I change mine once a year in the spring.
I had the Russell steel brake lines, they were okay. I've heard the Earls are better. The spring does help a little.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2003
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I think I'll try the PFZ since I've heard more guys on here have good things to say and forget the guy from autozone. He is going to give me 10% off everything which will help a little.
What is the problem with crossdrilled rotors cracking under heavy use? Does this also happen on slotted? Will the slotted give me any advantage over non? Finally, does anyone know the minimum wear on the disks? I have a micrometer, just need to know the measurement to tell if I need to replace the rotors or not.
What is the problem with crossdrilled rotors cracking under heavy use? Does this also happen on slotted? Will the slotted give me any advantage over non? Finally, does anyone know the minimum wear on the disks? I have a micrometer, just need to know the measurement to tell if I need to replace the rotors or not.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 13,348
Likes: 233
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
[QUOTE=89Corvette6spdFX3]
Sticking with stock calipers, would you suggest I go with Performance Friction Carbon Metalic pads all around or the Stock GM pads?
*** Carbon Metallic***
One more thing, I can order crossdrilled and slotted or just slotted rotors from autozone.
*** Ask Autozone ***
Anyone have experience with these rotors? Not sure what brand they are. Should I upgrade to these or stick with stock?
*** Depends on your situation. Stock is fine if you can't afford drilled/slotted. D/S is fine if you want the look. ***
[QUOTE]
Sticking with stock calipers, would you suggest I go with Performance Friction Carbon Metalic pads all around or the Stock GM pads?
*** Carbon Metallic***
One more thing, I can order crossdrilled and slotted or just slotted rotors from autozone.
*** Ask Autozone ***
Anyone have experience with these rotors? Not sure what brand they are. Should I upgrade to these or stick with stock?
*** Depends on your situation. Stock is fine if you can't afford drilled/slotted. D/S is fine if you want the look. ***
[QUOTE]
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 1
[QUOTE=code5coupe][QUOTE=89Corvette6spdFX3]
Thanks, can you ellaborate on your opinion? Why do you think this would be better?
The members of the corvetteforum have more knowlege of the vehicle than the guy from autozone. He drives a BMW wich doesn't ride/handle like the corvette nor does it have the same precise brake setup. He said he didn't like them. Asked him why, he said he didn't like the feel. So, again no facts to support his oppinion.
The look is cool and the price is not much higher so that's not a concern. What I'd like to know is if someone has used them and how durable they are.
I'm not trying to be negative, I appreciate your reply. I just was hoping for some more facts/ info before I buy. Thanks
Sticking with stock calipers, would you suggest I go with Performance Friction Carbon Metalic pads all around or the Stock GM pads?
*** Carbon Metallic***
*** Carbon Metallic***
Thanks, can you ellaborate on your opinion? Why do you think this would be better?
One more thing, I can order crossdrilled and slotted or just slotted rotors from autozone.
*** Ask Autozone ***
*** Ask Autozone ***
Anyone have experience with these rotors? Not sure what brand they are. Should I upgrade to these or stick with stock?
*** Depends on your situation. Stock is fine if you can't afford drilled/slotted. D/S is fine if you want the look. ***
*** Depends on your situation. Stock is fine if you can't afford drilled/slotted. D/S is fine if you want the look. ***
The look is cool and the price is not much higher so that's not a concern. What I'd like to know is if someone has used them and how durable they are.
I'm not trying to be negative, I appreciate your reply. I just was hoping for some more facts/ info before I buy. Thanks
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Race Director
Joined: May 2001
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Originally Posted by elefkow
Zero dust.
Anyway for the PFZ pads, I love them. It is true that when they are cold they are not the greatest pad, but understand what somebody says when they mean "cold" for brakes. Brakes generate a TON of heat, and thus warm up very quickly. If it's very cold outside or if you haven't used your brakes for a long time, like interstate driving, they can feel a little funny for a brief moment. I mean very brief, as in by the time you realize that something doesn't quite feel right, they really start to slow down.
If you drive mostly stop and go in town, you'll easily keep these pads warm enough.
As a side note there is NO fade with these pads. I once got my fluid so hot that I boiled it and the pads never faded at all. One downside is that if they get really hot they can tend to squeal a little.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
I apologize, 89, for my answers. I missread the one about the slotted/drilled vs. stock rotors and my answer was inappropriate.
I say PF over GM purely on cost (which includes the warranty).
Slotted and/or drilled discs are primarily a "looks" issue, since I believe the problems of S/D discs might outweigh the benefits (if there are any actual benefits...)
You can hardly go wrong in any case, since your choices primarily fall into the "personal preferences" category. Good luck!
Larry
I say PF over GM purely on cost (which includes the warranty).
Slotted and/or drilled discs are primarily a "looks" issue, since I believe the problems of S/D discs might outweigh the benefits (if there are any actual benefits...)
You can hardly go wrong in any case, since your choices primarily fall into the "personal preferences" category. Good luck!
Larry
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2003
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Thanks everyone for your help. I purchased the PFZ's for the front and PF carbon metalic for the rear, (they didn't order the Z's for the rear for me, plus the PFCM were a little cheaper.) I'm going to do Earls stainless lines next month when I have some more money. And I'm also going to get the standard rotors. I'm also finally going to install the bias spring i bought a year ago!
Will it be okay to do the pads now and the rotors later? Will I need to bed the brakes again after I put on new rotors? I know it would be best to do it all at the same time but I just want to get out there and work on the car. (You ever feel like that?)
Will it be okay to do the pads now and the rotors later? Will I need to bed the brakes again after I put on new rotors? I know it would be best to do it all at the same time but I just want to get out there and work on the car. (You ever feel like that?)
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,238
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From: walled lake MI
Originally Posted by 89Corvette6spdFX3
Will it be okay to do the pads now and the rotors later? Will I need to bed the brakes again after I put on new rotors? I know it would be best to do it all at the same time but I just want to get out there and work on the car. (You ever feel like that?)
i swapped pads last year and just put new rotors in this year. i have bedded the brakes again with the new rotors in place.
FYI, i've found the following article really helpful in understanding the bedding process and brake materials in general.
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 846
Likes: 105
From: Knoxville TN
I bought the most expensive pads from AUTOZONE and they create a ton of freakin dust. They work ok when they get warmed up though. I will not buy these pads again; I think that I am going to try the ebc greenstuff pads next time. 
