the MAF on the 87's is pretty touchy to start with, yup only the screens if you unscrew and screws its's all over as well you need to pry the screens loose...
You'll need a new one 
Need help with my MAF
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,747
Likes: 1
From: Port McNicoll Ontario
Need help with my MAF
I may have just learned a lesson on waiting until I have all the information before going ahead and trying to do soemthing on my own.
I decided it was time to gut my MAF sensor. Was I only supposed to take out the screens?
My car will not idle now and I'm getting codes 33 and 34.
Is there a way to get the computer to ignore those codes and have the car run?
Do I need to replace the MAF sensor?
If yes, who makes a good aftermarket one to fit an 87?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
I decided it was time to gut my MAF sensor. Was I only supposed to take out the screens?
My car will not idle now and I'm getting codes 33 and 34.
Is there a way to get the computer to ignore those codes and have the car run?
Do I need to replace the MAF sensor?
If yes, who makes a good aftermarket one to fit an 87?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,160
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From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
All youre supposed to do is take out those screens, nothing inside.
If you took out anything inside, you botched it. Only way to fix is buy a new MAF sensor, and dont mess with Aftermarket ones, only get the GM piece for this. Technically you can remove the heat sink fins, but touching the element is dangerous and I advise against it.
If you took out anything inside, you botched it. Only way to fix is buy a new MAF sensor, and dont mess with Aftermarket ones, only get the GM piece for this. Technically you can remove the heat sink fins, but touching the element is dangerous and I advise against it.
Last edited by vader86; Jul 13, 2004 at 10:48 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
So long as the sensor wires are in tact the MAF should be ok.
Check the connector before replacing the unit; if possible borrow one from an F-body car to substitute check yours.
Check the connector before replacing the unit; if possible borrow one from an F-body car to substitute check yours.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,747
Likes: 1
From: Port McNicoll Ontario
Thanks for the help guys.
When I say I gutted it...I gutted it.
It's now a hollow tube.
Looks like I need a new one, any tips on where to buy?
Just the screens this time.
When I say I gutted it...I gutted it.
It's now a hollow tube.
Looks like I need a new one, any tips on where to buy?
Just the screens this time.
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Drifting
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,521
Likes: 0
From: West Islip New York
Originally Posted by 87 rag
When I say I gutted it...I gutted it.
It's now a hollow tube.
It's now a hollow tube.
I'm sorry and I don't take offense, but I've had a really bad day, and your post made me lmao, thanks for that.
Next time, if you're not sure please ask us first
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 1
From: Enter Post Count Here
It's already been answered, you need a new one.
Just as a learning experience, metering the amount of air going into an engine is the most important part of the fuel injection system. There are two systems for doing that, MAF, Mass Air Flow which measures the amount of air flowing past those little wires by metering how quickly they are cooled down. It's a good system, but MAP is much better, it stands for Manifold Absolute Pressure, which is the amount of air that the engine is sucking.
Either of these numbers if vital for fuel flow, so there can be no default to run the car without them. Variations in temperature or flow characteristics of the engine are enough that a limp home is impossible, as you could seriously lean or foul out the motor.
Better luck in the future.
Just as a learning experience, metering the amount of air going into an engine is the most important part of the fuel injection system. There are two systems for doing that, MAF, Mass Air Flow which measures the amount of air flowing past those little wires by metering how quickly they are cooled down. It's a good system, but MAP is much better, it stands for Manifold Absolute Pressure, which is the amount of air that the engine is sucking.
Either of these numbers if vital for fuel flow, so there can be no default to run the car without them. Variations in temperature or flow characteristics of the engine are enough that a limp home is impossible, as you could seriously lean or foul out the motor.
Better luck in the future.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
Well, after you pop off the two end caps it's fine to cut off all the heat sink fins...after you've carefully covered the ends of the sensor tube with duct tape. Then blow out all debris after machining before removeing the duct tape.
Try Contemporary Corvette (link on my site) for a good used MAF, or you could try a local F-body bone yard too. I'm now running the MAF from my '86 IROC in the '88 Vette with no problems.
Try Contemporary Corvette (link on my site) for a good used MAF, or you could try a local F-body bone yard too. I'm now running the MAF from my '86 IROC in the '88 Vette with no problems.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,747
Likes: 1
From: Port McNicoll Ontario
65Z01, I read the info on your site afterwards. Lots of good into there that I know I will use in the future. Cut back my plugs today too
1moortym, glad I could make you laugh, I hope your day wasn't as bad as mine.
All for learning, new one is ordered along with a bunch of other things.
I was going to spend some money on it anyway, just set me back a little on timing is all.
1moortym, glad I could make you laugh, I hope your day wasn't as bad as mine.
All for learning, new one is ordered along with a bunch of other things.
I was going to spend some money on it anyway, just set me back a little on timing is all.