Upper Ball joints
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,140
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Upper Ball joints
Getting some slop out of my upper ball joints...Should I go ahead and knock the old ones out and replace it or buy a new control arms with the ball joint installed.. Ball joints are cheap....control arms aint but I am not trying to cut corners. Think there would be any difference? Think Im nuts? 
...your not alone 
...your not alone
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Originally Posted by Powerdrive
Getting some slop out of my upper ball joints...Should I go ahead and knock the old ones out and replace it or buy a new control arms with the ball joint installed.. Ball joints are cheap....control arms aint but I am not trying to cut corners. Think there would be any difference? Think Im nuts? ...your not alone
...your not alone The upper ones rarely wear out. Are you sure they are your problem?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 32
From: The Top of Utah
I just finished a complete front end job. The only advantage (?) to new "A" arms, is new inner shafts and stock bushings. If you want to change the bushings, an Energy Suspension bushing kit will still save money. If the old bushings are good and you are otherwise happy with them, you can change the ball joints without removing the "A" frames from the car., a real time saver.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 322
Likes: 1
From: Los Gatos, CA
Better bushings at the same time
If you have future track use in mind, a nice upgrade is Global west bushings. Better for the lower arms too. It's not a trivial job, but they work really well. They don't deflect as much as rubber, don't sqeak like urethane sometimes can, and have less friction for rotation.
Bench Racer
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,201
Likes: 15
From: Palm Beach Gardens FL
St. Jude '03 thru 14,'25
Quicksilver has a set of new uppers with new balljoints that he's trying to sell now that he's moved up to a Z06. He intended to install them on his 147K 93 but figured it was easier and quicker - no drilling, no pressing, just an R&R job so he bought them as a unit. Here's the thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=860064
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=860064
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,397
Likes: 0
From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
you can change the ball joints without removing the "A" frames from the car., a real time saver.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 506
Likes: 12
From: Savannah GA
Ditto about upper balljoint wear, all they do is turn they don't carry the load.
If you are going to change them you drill out the 4 rivets and replace them with bolts.
Lower ball joints press out, AutoZone loans the press kit for FREE. They are easy to change.
The most difficult part of changing either balljoint is getting it loose from the spindle. Don't waste your money of a pickel fork they are a pain to use. If you watch suspension mechanics all they do is take out the cotter pin loosen the nut and hit the side of the connection a big hammer! The shop manual shows a tool that is mostly 2 bolts in a threaded sleeve you put between the 2 studs open them up and it pops them out. I made one out of hardware store parts for about $2.
JS
If you are going to change them you drill out the 4 rivets and replace them with bolts.
Lower ball joints press out, AutoZone loans the press kit for FREE. They are easy to change.
The most difficult part of changing either balljoint is getting it loose from the spindle. Don't waste your money of a pickel fork they are a pain to use. If you watch suspension mechanics all they do is take out the cotter pin loosen the nut and hit the side of the connection a big hammer! The shop manual shows a tool that is mostly 2 bolts in a threaded sleeve you put between the 2 studs open them up and it pops them out. I made one out of hardware store parts for about $2.
JS
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 32
From: The Top of Utah
IBEAM700,
What he said.
My method for releasing the tapered stud from the knuckle (spindle) is simple and painless. I make the spring work FOR me. For the uppers, I jacked up the lower "A" frame and put a spacer (block of wood, hammer, socket, etc.) between the bottom of the upper "A" frame and the car's frame, and then lowered the jack. I removed the castellated nut and reversed it on the ball stud. I screwed it on until it was flush with the end of the ball stud. A couple of square hits with a hammer at the nut and stud, and it popped loose. If you are doing the lower, at the same time, move on and repeat, below, before you separate the upper ball joint any further, to keep the spring working for you. No special tools, no muss, no fuss.
RACE ON!!!
What he said.
Originally Posted by jsinga
If you are going to change them you drill out the 4 rivets and replace them with bolts.
The most difficult part of changing either balljoint is getting it loose from the spindle.
JS
The most difficult part of changing either balljoint is getting it loose from the spindle.
JS
RACE ON!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,866
Likes: 60
From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
IBEAM700,
What he said.
My method for releasing the tapered stud from the knuckle (spindle) is simple and painless. I make the spring work FOR me. For the uppers, I jacked up the lower "A" frame and put a spacer (block of wood, hammer, socket, etc.) between the bottom of the upper "A" frame and the car's frame, and then lowered the jack. I removed the castellated nut and reversed it on the ball stud. I screwed it on until it was flush with the end of the ball stud. A couple of square hits with a hammer at the nut and stud, and it popped loose. If you are doing the lower, at the same time, move on and repeat, below, before you separate the upper ball joint any further, to keep the spring working for you. No special tools, no muss, no fuss.
RACE ON!!!
What he said.
My method for releasing the tapered stud from the knuckle (spindle) is simple and painless. I make the spring work FOR me. For the uppers, I jacked up the lower "A" frame and put a spacer (block of wood, hammer, socket, etc.) between the bottom of the upper "A" frame and the car's frame, and then lowered the jack. I removed the castellated nut and reversed it on the ball stud. I screwed it on until it was flush with the end of the ball stud. A couple of square hits with a hammer at the nut and stud, and it popped loose. If you are doing the lower, at the same time, move on and repeat, below, before you separate the upper ball joint any further, to keep the spring working for you. No special tools, no muss, no fuss.
RACE ON!!!
