C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Speed bleeders leaking?

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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 02:25 AM
  #1  
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Default Speed bleeders leaking?

This is on a 91 coupe. Bought a set of speedbleeders from Ecklers a couple of months ago. Installed them along with a set of S/S braided brake lines. Replaced all the brake fluid, 4 sets of pads with PFC's from AutoZone and new front rotors. Granted, the PFC's don't work well when cold, but the pedal feels mushy. Stopping in normal day-to-day traffic, they work fine. But for AX, they suck. After reading posts here, bled the rears with the key both on and off. I bled the lines a couple of weeks ago and got a bit of air. I'm not sure (and I don't know how to check) if there might be trapped air in the ABS. I don't find a bleed valve under the car nor in the ABS compartment. Would raising the car on jack stands with the tires off and letting the car idle in drive to 3 mph to engage the ABS work?
Anybody got any ideas? Help! I'd realy like to go faster driving AX, but I hate it when I can't stop.
Thanks in advance
Subman
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 03:11 AM
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From: eville in
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do you have a leak ???? Autozone pad's ,,, girlfriend says they
feel mushie!!! she is a brake drager.... she wore out a set of met's...
from Autozone in 3-1/2 months I Am a pain i watch how she drive's...... No we aren't M- the big M but it's the same ....Need input
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 10:58 AM
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It should be easy to see if they're leaking. Just clean off the calipers and area around the bleeders real well, then get in the car and push down on the brake pedal hard (as you would in a panic stop). Hold it there for about 10-20 seconds, then let it up. Now, go around to each caliper and see if there is a trail of brake fluid coming from the bleeders.

I had one leeking bleeder in the set of four I got from Autozone. I just put the stock bleeder screw back in on that caliper. The other three have Speed Bleeders and I haven't had any more trouble so far.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 11:23 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by comp
do you have a leak ???? Autozone pad's ,,, girlfriend says they
feel mushie!!! she is a brake drager.... she wore out a set of met's...
from Autozone in 3-1/2 months I Am a pain i watch how she drive's...... No we aren't M- the big M but it's the same ....Need input

Get rid of the brake dragging g/f and the problem is solved.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 01:03 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by subman
This is on a 91 coupe. Bought a set of speedbleeders from Ecklers a couple of months ago. Installed them along with a set of S/S braided brake lines. Replaced all the brake fluid, 4 sets of pads with PFC's from AutoZone and new front rotors. Granted, the PFC's don't work well when cold, but the pedal feels mushy. Stopping in normal day-to-day traffic, they work fine. But for AX, they suck. After reading posts here, bled the rears with the key both on and off. I bled the lines a couple of weeks ago and got a bit of air. I'm not sure (and I don't know how to check) if there might be trapped air in the ABS. I don't find a bleed valve under the car nor in the ABS compartment. Would raising the car on jack stands with the tires off and letting the car idle in drive to 3 mph to engage the ABS work?
Anybody got any ideas? Help! I'd realy like to go faster driving AX, but I hate it when I can't stop.
Thanks in advance
Subman
IMO, you introduced air into the system. Now, how to fix it...
a)remove the MC cap
b) bleed the brakes, starting with RR/LR/RF/LF...BUT
c) only crack the SB's enough to allow the fluid to flow when you depress the brake pedal. If you unscrew them too much, you will allow air to be sucked in past the threads. (patch or no patch)
d)tap the caliper with the handle of a large screw driver or some other non lethal weapon, while you're assistant is depressing (smoothly) the brake pedal. (move quite a bit of fluid through each caliper, as I believe that you have some stubborn air trapped)
e) make sure that the MC does NOT go empty and suck air. (start over, bigtime if it does!) Let us know how that goes. BTW, the PFC pads do not suck when cold, they just work better with some heat. PS..wouldn't recommend jacking the car up and running it while working on it. (Not necessary, not smart, may end up )
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 06:40 PM
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Which brand of Speedbleeders? Where they Russell by chance?
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 08:17 PM
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You may want to try switching to DOT 4 or better (DOT 5.1 - NOT DOT 5) brake fluid. During aggressive braking during autox, you may be boiling your brake fluid (depending on your approach and the actual autox course).
Both of my front speed bleeders leak from around the threads when you crack them to bleed. I was told this is bad. Is this the kind of leak that you're experiencing?
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by eschoendorff
Both of my front speed bleeders leak from around the threads when you crack them to bleed. I was told this is bad. Is this the kind of leak that you're experiencing?
I bit of teflon around the threads will take care of that problem.
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Old Aug 3, 2004 | 11:08 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by eschoendorff
You may want to try switching to DOT 4 or better (DOT 5.1 - NOT DOT 5) brake fluid. During aggressive braking during autox, you may be boiling your brake fluid (depending on your approach and the actual autox course).
Both of my front speed bleeders leak from around the threads when you crack them to bleed. I was told this is bad. Is this the kind of leak that you're experiencing?
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 02:01 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Which brand of Speedbleeders? Where they Russell by chance?
I have the Earls type which has a brass check valve that seats on the bevel in the caliper. During installation I ground a drill bit to this angle to clean-up this seat. The check valve now seats and seals during the bleeding operation with just a drop of leaking through the threads.

subman, Check to make sure your bleeding tube is submerged in fluid during the process.

-JRC-
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 02:24 PM
  #11  
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I chased all the threads with a tap & die, then put lock-tite on em and tightened em up. No leaks since. Before that, they leaked from the threads because so much sealant was caked on straight out of the package, and I couldn't get em seated.
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