Lowering C4
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 406
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From: BAY AREA CALI
Lowering C4
I wanted to lower my 95 I saw the kits from VBP and Ecklers that have the longer rear bolt and pad for the front but wanted to know if this is actually all I need or is there something else most people do also how hard is the in stall and any info on the outcome from anyone who knows about these kits. 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,413
Likes: 138
From: Texas
It's all you need, rear is simple but the front will take you some serious time, you have to remove the front spring.
http://webpages.charter.net/khasting.../lowering.html
http://webpages.charter.net/khasting.../lowering.html
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 406
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From: BAY AREA CALI
Thanks
After looking at the front I'm wondering if its gonna be worth it looks like the front was alil tricky the back was about what I thought it would be. Guess I better look at the stance after the new wheels and tires are on and go from there but Glad to know thats all I need Thanks 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 6,694
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From: Less Talk, More WOT | Houston TX
It is definately worth it. 
Its not really very hard, even in the front, it just takes a bit of time and patience to complete. You'll be alright If you have any specific questions about the procedure you can IM me 
Its not really very hard, even in the front, it just takes a bit of time and patience to complete. You'll be alright If you have any specific questions about the procedure you can IM me
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Almost all Skyline Cruises Vettes at Waterside 1-5
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Originally Posted by ZELLSLIFE
I wanted to lower my 95 I saw the kits from VBP and Ecklers that have the longer rear bolt and pad for the front but wanted to know if this is actually all I need or is there something else most people do also how hard is the in stall and any info on the outcome from anyone who knows about these kits.
Just my HO The vette wants a 2 % rake toward the front end(front lower than rear)
so I would try to maintain that during lowering.
Plus, once I lowered it, I would head for a good alignment shop and get a good 4 wheel alignment with particular attention to the "caster" adjustment.
I have read here and in tech manuals that lowering the front and the rear can change the caster
Good luck
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 406
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From: BAY AREA CALI
Alignment
I have to get a 4 wheel alignment now because I am changing my wheels and tires plus its just time for one I think so I wanted to do the lowering before the alignment. As for the castor and such I had planned on using VBP's Advanced Street Stettings which are
Front: Toe 0" Camber 1/4 degree neg Caster 5-7 degree pos
Rear: Toe 1/16" in each side for a total symetrical of 1/8" in
Camber 1/2 degree neg
Will that work with it being lowered?
I will say that the photos of your cars lowered do look nice. 
Front: Toe 0" Camber 1/4 degree neg Caster 5-7 degree pos
Rear: Toe 1/16" in each side for a total symetrical of 1/8" in
Camber 1/2 degree neg
Will that work with it being lowered?
I will say that the photos of your cars lowered do look nice.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
The front is quite a bit of work, but you'll enjoy getting up close and personal with your suspension, and seeing what condition it's in.
The other stuff needed is mentioned on my website.
The other stuff needed is mentioned on my website.
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Racer
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 401
Likes: 1
From: Aptos CA
There is alot more to lowering: Remove rear center spacing blocks. Remove front frame spacing blocks. Change spring curves. Longer rear bolts. and something else I can't remember right now.
Anyway I would LOVE to have a good alignment. I try to run a .5% toe and 1% camber to off set high speed cornering wear.
Anyway I would LOVE to have a good alignment. I try to run a .5% toe and 1% camber to off set high speed cornering wear.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: VA
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