grapidssteve

I'm having starting issues, started with a difficult start when warm, now its gone to a non-start when cold also. The kicker is, tonite, after trying to start 3-5 times and then trying to start another 3-4 times with the peddle down in "clear flood mode", I let it sit for 5 minutes while I found and hooked up my timing light. Came back out and it started on the first crank.

Does the 85 have a crank position sensor? I've done some work with the distributor last year and the timing is way advanced. Up until now I haven't suspected that anything was too messed up, the car has ran fine and no problems starting. Now I'm thinking that the ecm is getting lost occasionally, because it always ends up firing up. Sometimes in 5 minutes, sometimes 25 minutes, but it will start.

I also had a fuel pressure gauge on it when I tried starting it and it read 38-40psi the whole time. Fuel supply doesn't seem to be an issue, but maybe the spark isn't happening when it should?

Thoughts?

89vert

Steve I read your earlier post and asked if you had wet plugs when you pulled them. If wet it seems it is an ignition problem. To answer your question your '85 doesn't have a crank sensor. I pulled out my Haynes manual and it lists the following. 1. battery discharged. 2. fuel system malfunctioning. 3. injectors leaking. 4. Distributor rotor carbon tracked. 5 fuel pump relay faulty. 6. throttle body dirty. In my opinion it doesn't have a fuel problem. I would say it is an ignition problem. Most likly a bad conection or module. I live by you if you would like some help let me know. Tim

grapidssteve

89vert, I'm tending to agree with you on the ignition issues. But where to look? I've pulled the distributor cap and all looks ok in there. Why sometimes and not others?

When the injectors go bad, do they get stuck some of the time? The fuel filter is at about 15,000 miles, so its about time for a new one.

The plugs didn't seem wet nor did they appeared fouled (compared them to the pictures in the back of the Haines manual). Once I put them back in, the car started on the first try. I pulled it into the driveway and it sat there for about 6 hours until I tried to start it and it wouldn't go, then 5 minutes later it did.

The plugs sat out overnite, maybe that gave the fuel a chance to evaporate? Didn't smell any fuel in the garage, but I've had a cold lately and that sure could affect my sniffing abilities.

89vert

I have seen were a module will fail intermittently before failing completely. I think you have eliminated the fuel problem with the earlier testing. I think that Autozone can test modules if you remove and take it in but check with them first. How old is the cap and rotor, I read about a month ago that a forum member was having an intermittent starting problem and it turned out to be the button under the coil. I'm thinking out loud now. I still think it is an ignition problem maybe where the wires plug into the module. Have you been able to check for spark at the plug when it won't start?

JAKE

Next time the engine is in one of its No Start Conditions, connect your timing light to a plug wire and see if you're getting flashes as you crank the engine.

One of your local auto parts stores can check your module for you - it's free. I use O'Reilly's Auto Parts, but I believe AutoZone has a module tester too.

Jake

grapidssteve

I haven't been able to get the timing light on it when it is in no-start condition. The last time it did it and I hooked it up, it started right away. The light is right there, though, in case of just such an issue.

The module you're talking about, is that the coil in the distributor?

The cap and rotor are less than 4000 miles old, more like 3000.