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Flushing brakes

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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 04:15 PM
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Default Flushing brakes

Hey guys,
For those who arent up to date on my brake probem, heres a recap. Brakes are hard when cold (50 Degrees F or less) outside weather temp. As the engine, or the compartment warms up, they start to work. I changes the booster, vac line, and check valve. The filter is not stopped up or leaking.

I am thinking maybe its the master cylinder or the fluid is bad. What process do you guys use to change the fluid? I would like to fix this before its cold outside again. In Louisiana, 50 degrees is cold.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 04:21 PM
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From: The Colony Tx
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Since I have spent the past 3 weeks changing my fluid every few days (that's another story) what I have been using is a Starbuck's Frapchinno bottle that I drilled a hole thru the cap. I then stuck a length of clear hose into the bottle and connected it to the bleeder. I had the bottle about 1/4 full of brake fluid. I then opened the bleeder and pushed on the pedal about 5 times. Put more fluid in the fluid holder and repeted this several times. By the time the bottle is full the fluid for that line should have been changed. And, you have just bleed the brake you are working on.
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by aj1988
Since I have spent the past 3 weeks changing my fluid every few days (that's another story) what I have been using is a Starbuck's Frapchinno bottle that I drilled a hole thru the cap. I then stuck a length of clear hose into the bottle and connected it to the bleeder. I had the bottle about 1/4 full of brake fluid. I then opened the bleeder and pushed on the pedal about 5 times. Put more fluid in the fluid holder and repeted this several times. By the time the bottle is full the fluid for that line should have been changed. And, you have just bleed the brake you are working on.

I am not sure why you are changing brake fluid so frequently, I do mine about three times a year depending on use.

Your method of bleeding may be great, but I prefer to either gravity bleed (open the bleed screws and let the fluid flow. It's slow but very effective); use my vacuum pump or use my speed bleeders. Air in the lines could remain in the lines if all you do is pump out a specific quantity of fluid when you step down on the pedal and then suck the same quantity of fluid back in when you release the pedal.

Hey, but what do I know!

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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 08:36 PM
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From: The Colony Tx
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And now for the rest of the story. About 3 weeks ago, I had a spongey pedal so I decided to bleed the brakes. A friend came over and we did the LR, RR, RF, LF according to the book. When I went to drive the car, no brakes. Since there was not a real problem, the car stopped just the pedal didn't feel that good, I was convinced I had done something wrong. That's when I came up with my bottle bleeder. I will admit that I came up with some unique ways to watch the clear hose to make sure I wasn't getting air back into the system. After I did this, still no brakes. I then changed out the pads...No change. So I changed the MC...still no brakes. Every time I did something, I was doing the bleed thing. Well, yesterday I took the car to a shop still thinking I had developed a good case of stupid. When I went back, he said that there was NO air in the system, but that the Power Brake Booster was very week. He had put a vac. guage on it and it showed, I think, 10 lbs of suction. He then moved his guage to another place and was getting 20 lbs. The replacement booster, I just changed it last year, will be here Friday and I will see if that really is the problem.

Beside, I have had so much fun doing this I may do it once a week for life :-( Yeah, right.
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 10:59 AM
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Thanks. I dont have speed bleeders so i would have to go the other route. My mechanic says the MC may have faulty rubber rings inside that bind with temp change. I will probably change it before the winter.
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