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The ABS unit has several recirculation circuits operated by solenoids.
There is indeed a bleeding procedure for the ABS unit, which requires a System One controller (or equivalent) to cycle the solenoids sequentially while the brakes are being bled. The Service Manual details the procedure.
Under most circumstances short of replacing the ABS unit, bleeding the brakes in the usual fashion does not introduce air into the recirculation passages, so special bleeding of the ABS is not routinely required. If a soft pedal is encountered while the ABS is operational, then ABS bleeding would be indicated.
One more time. How do you bleed the ABS without a service tool ?
This is not routine. There is a problem that I've not encountered in 25+ years of turnig wrenches as a professional and as a racer.
From what the GM Service Manual says, you need a Tech-1 and the plug-in Brake Module to bleed the ABS system. The Tech-1 can send a signal to operate the ABS system while a pressure bleed is being done.
The ABS does a self-test when you start the motor, put it in gear and the car reaches about 3-4 MPH. The pump runs briefly at that point and you should hear a very short buzzing from the system. The ABS may push fluid from the pump into the brake system and pull fluid in at the same time during the test.
I had asked the local Chevy dealer about doing a full brake bleed including the ABS pump and they did not recommend bleeding the ABS pump unless there was some sort of problem with the ABS.
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Originally Posted by Ls1Rat
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Personally I think the "gravity" bleed is the best way to go and from what I have read in a few places so do Nascar and other race teams.
I open up all bleed screws, put a piece of hose leading to a collection pan(s) on each wheel!
Keep a big bottle of new brake fluid nearby and keep adding to the reservoirs before the fluid level gets down to the bottom.
Takes an hour or so, but, during that time you can polish it or just kick back and enjoy a few suds
I forget how much those big jugs of brake fluid hold, but once you have gone through one, you should be done. You can close up front bleeder screws after about half an hour and the let the rear run
air in the ABS would NOT cause a spongy pedal unless the ABS unit was activating. only then would it introduce the trapped air into the rest of the system. having said that, the ABS unit does cycle at a certain MPH.
and there is NO way to bleed it without the fancy $$$ tool.
some ABS units have a bleed screw on it, some like my 96 do NOT.
I ran my entire system dry while changing brake hoses, but never had to bleed the ABS unit. I just did the standard "wifey pump pedal" bleed.
I think it would be hard to introduce air into the ABS unit without actually removing the lines from the abs unit itself.
WELL , I've kinda ran out of options.
I installed 2 new master cylinders that I bench bled and I've run about a gallon of fluid thru each with out any bubbles.
For a C5 or what year? If the problem was there before you replaced it and there's no air in the fluid, there seems to be some other problem. I'd guess the lines or a bum caliper, or maybe a booster check valve bleeding vacuum, but not knowing the system, hard to tell.
For a C5 or what year? If the problem was there before you replaced it and there's no air in the fluid, there seems to be some other problem. I'd guess the lines or a bum caliper, or maybe a booster check valve bleeding vacuum, but not knowing the system, hard to tell.
calipers are fine, I rebuilt them, orings are fine.
sent a PM
I was taught during an ABS brake repair class that any air trapped in the ABS would be cycled out if you get the system to activate. I do it easily in a big gravel parking lot near me. Car only has to be going about 5 MPH, clutch in & stab the brakes good & hard. You can hear the pump & feel the pedal shudder/shimmy & get a little soft. But after that the pedal is nice & firm. I also have braided lines & DRM master cyl bias spring installed.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
WARNINGIt depends on the year of the car.
On some it's automatic, you'll hear the unit clicking when you fire it up. On others there's a bleeder screw on the ABS unit, and both it and the brake calipers must be bleed in a certain order.
Solenoids are open as long as the key is off. Activated only during the start up test. If your R & R the pump and modulator, bleed in the normal fashion.