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About three weeks ago after a short WOT run the car would not idle and could barley make it the 2 miles home with all its bucking and snorting. There were NO trouble codes and with the MAF unplugged it ran much better and seemed to point to a bad MAF. I was out of town for a couple weeks and today was the first time I could mess with it. All the voltages were present (+5V from ECM & 12V from relay) and no opens on the two ground lines. Since I do not have a scanner, what I could not do was check the analog signal from the MAF. I decided to throw down the change for another MAF and that did the trick, all seems normal now, although I have not taken her out for a good gallop yet. Just an FYI.
About three weeks ago after a short WOT run the car would not idle and could barley make it the 2 miles home with all its bucking and snorting. There were NO trouble codes and with the MAF unplugged it ran much better and seemed to point to a bad MAF. I was out of town for a couple weeks and today was the first time I could mess with it. All the voltages were present (+5V from ECM & 12V from relay) and no opens on the two ground lines. Since I do not have a scanner, what I could not do was check the analog signal from the MAF. I decided to throw down the change for another MAF and that did the trick, all seems normal now, although I have not taken her out for a good gallop yet. Just an FYI.
You probably nailed it.
MAF problems can sometimes be a little tricky to diagnose. You may not always get an error code.
One sure way to find out is to install a known good MAF and if the engine runs normally again, then you can be sure you have a bad MAF.
How well does an engine run with the MAF unplugged.
Way better than a screwed up MAF I never took it out for a drive with the MAF disconected but it idled fine and rev'ed well. The built in table or what ever it runs off seems to work pretty well.