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I know this has been covered, but I searched and couldnt come up with anything.
SO I have to change my oil pan gasket. It LOOKS like I can do it without jacking the engine up....but I dont know if I will be able to clear the oil pump enough to get it off.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
On my LT1 I got it off without raising it but knew then that it'd be a bear to put back on that way. I raised it maybe an inch and a half and it made all the difference. I just put some wood blocks between the mounts and frame until it was back on.
Leave the engine mount alone. After taken out all the oil pan nuts and try to drop the pan if the pan is stuck rotate the crank a little so it will have enough space to drop the oil pan. I have no problem with the oil pump in the way so your shouldn't either. To put it back you need to use some gasket sealer on four corner to kinda help the gasket to stay inplace. Its not that bad. The car has to be raise high enough so you can get in and out though. I think mine was on one of those plastic ramp.
C-4 oil pan gasket is one piece and it shouldn't be leaking and its reusable. Check else where for leaks like the intake manifold before changing the gasket. You might be looking at the wrong problem.
Quote "C-4 oil pan gasket is one piece and it shouldn't be leaking and its reusable. Check else where for leaks like the intake manifold before changing the gasket. You might be looking at the wrong problem."
IF( I don't really know) the C4 oil pan gasket is a one piece like quoted above I would drop the pan and not take it out. Felpro makes a one piece blue rubber gasket(not positive if the make one for the C4), It comes with four plastic screws(very long,2 1/2" or so).
Drop the pan, while its hanging remove the gasket, clean mating surfaces as best as possible without getting any debris into the pan.
Slide the new gasket over the pan, instead of under the crank and oil pump. put the 4 throw away screws in ( 2 front ,2 rear)to hold the gasket on the block,
slide the pan up, there's notches in the plastic screw that'll hold the pan up so you can start the remainder of the screws. Once there in remove the 4 plastic screws and put the old screws in.
AGAIN THIS WILL PROBABLY WORK ONLY IF WE"RE TALKING ONE PIECE GASKET.
I just did the exact same job on my 95 Bronco.
If it works let me know. Hey you got nothing to lose.
C-4 oil pan gasket is one piece and it shouldn't be leaking and its reusable.
While I have seen one piece pan gaskets offered, I didn't believe they were ever OE equipment. In researching the statement, "C-4 oil pan gasket is one piece" I find that the 1986-1989 (as late as my Corvette parts book goes) DOES use a one piece pan gasket from the factory. The 1984 and 1985 use the old 4 piece pan set as all previous small blocks. The 1986 was the first year of the one piece rear main oil seal. Because of the different seal and the seal retainer, the oil pans and pan gaskets are NOT interchangeable. Unfortunately, the statement, "C-4 oil pan gasket is one piece" isn't universally true. Since BADMUDE, neglected to mention the year of his car, like too many don't, I thought I'd clarify this for us EARLY C4 owners.
Well..yes I was able to do it without lifting the engine..just had to remove the crossbraces on the frame.
OK...this is why it was leaking...I shouldnt be admitting this..but I put a new cam in about 2 years ago...and when I took off the timing chain cover, I ASSUMED it was a 2 piece seal.....so what do I do...but pull the sh*t out of the gasket...before I realised it was a one peice...well I caulked it up and hoped for the best. lol...well...I had nothng to do this weekend....
Some C4 guys can drop the oil pan with the front cross braces in place, and other need to remove them. Not sure what gives, but on my 86, the pan would not come off till the cross braces came off first. As previously posted, the Fel-Pro one piece gasket is the way to go for you guys out there that need to replace yours. The 4 plastic studs that come with the gasket hold the pan up against the block for you while you install the rest of the pan bolts. I installed one on my 86 several months ago, and to this day, the mating areas arround the pan are absolutely leak free. I crawl under the car periodically to check for leaks, and so far so good.
I know this has been covered, but I searched and couldnt come up with anything.
SO I have to change my oil pan gasket. It LOOKS like I can do it without jacking the engine up....but I dont know if I will be able to clear the oil pump enough to get it off.
Had anybody attempted it?
Thanks!
I don't know your years, but on my 86 I've dropped the pan a few times. Never had to jack the engine but I did have to loosen the cross-braces. I removed the forward-most bolts (2) and just loosened the rearward most bolts (2). I then just swiveled the braces out of the way.
I know this has been covered, but I searched and couldnt come up with anything.
SO I have to change my oil pan gasket. It LOOKS like I can do it without jacking the engine up....but I dont know if I will be able to clear the oil pump enough to get it off.
Had anybody attempted it?
Thanks!
I created a doc file a while back on the procedure I use in dropping the pan on my 86. I tried emailing it to you but learned you instructed the Forum that you do not want to receive emails.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by onedef92
Get the one-piece Fel-pro gasket and use copper RTV sealant and you won't have THAT leak again.
I don't know about the L98, but the Fel Pro gasket for the LT1 recommends NO sealant. It really shouldn't be necessary with a gasket of such design. If you were to use any, I would just use a very small dab at the corners. I'm very wary of silicone where it can get into an oil system. I've seen engines ruined by the over use and misuse of it. It is not an end all and fix all that some people seem to think it is. It's a great product, used properly.
I don't know about the L98, but the Fel Pro gasket for the LT1 recommends NO sealant.
It also requires no sealant. I went ahead and used a small ammount of Permatex "The Right Stuff" at the corners anyway. Don't know if that made a difference over installing it dry, but it has not leaked.