C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

The dreaded Code 32, again

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Old Aug 20, 2004 | 03:40 AM
  #1  
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Default The dreaded Code 32, again

I picked up a SES light about 2 weeks ago when running 60-65 on the freeway for about 25-30 minutes and pulled a code 32 when I got home - EGR or ECM. ECM is new, checked all the hoses, vacuum lines and electrical connections. All good. Reset the computer. All seems to be well, or so I thought. Last night, running 60-65 on the freeway another SES and code 32.
The only problem I have been able to find is a slight exhaust leak where the front Y pipe and the cat join.
The main cat is about 1 year old and the pre-cats have been gutted.
So the question is - could the leak be the cause of the 32 or should I just replace the EGR.
Thanks in advance for the help
Subman
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Old Aug 20, 2004 | 05:11 AM
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An exhaust leak at that location should not cause a code 32.

There is a diagnostic method to help isolate which of the EGR system components are faulty.
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Old Aug 20, 2004 | 06:24 AM
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What's probably happening is that your EGR valve is sticking open or closed due to some carbon build up. You can remove it and inspect and clean it also check the vacume diaphram with a hand pump. The EGR is supposed to opperate at highway speeds.Also I cant rember if a 32 is assoicated with the EGR switch or not. If so that is cheaper than the
valve.
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Old Aug 20, 2004 | 08:26 AM
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New EGR Switch is the most common fix for a code 32. Replaced mine last year for a 32 before leaving for Carlisle.....no further problems.
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Old Aug 20, 2004 | 09:34 AM
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To test the EGR on my '86, I used a vacuum gauge (Mighty Vac $35??). The EGR held vacuum, but the plastic hoses from the EGR's rubber connecting hose needed to be replaced. That plastic hosing is cheap stuff at PEP Boys. Carefully use a heat gun to make your bends. Hope that helps.
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Old Aug 20, 2004 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 65Z01
An exhaust leak at that location should not cause a code 32.

There is a diagnostic method to help isolate which of the EGR system components are faulty.
This is a very easy problem to diagnos and replace only the faulty part. Most likely the switch, but if you just follow the directions on his site which are excellent, you will know exactly what is wrong. One thing to be careful of though is that the plastic vacum lines are probably very brittle. Be careful with them and get some extra hose beforehand so you can make repairs if any of them crack.

Last edited by skybolt31; Aug 20, 2004 at 10:59 AM.
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 01:49 PM
  #7  
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The switch runs about $7 and is the usual culprit. Try that first.
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by onedef92
The switch runs about $7 and is the usual culprit. Try that first.


If you do your own programming you can turn that off in the switch tables.
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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 10:26 AM
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Replaced the EGR switch on my 87-no more 32. On an 87 the switch it self is cheap and easy to replace-BUT trying to plug it in seemed impossible, it plugs in down and behind the dist.I had to remove the dist. to accomplish this. Never again-I'll just cut, splice and shrink tape the wire.
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