C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

A warning for early C4 owners...

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Old Aug 21, 2004 | 08:25 PM
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Default A warning for early C4 owners...

...1984 to about 1990.

somewhere about 1990/1, the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) changed the rules regarding the composition of wire insulation.

What this mean is, newer wire is better. It is better able to deal with heat and harsh chemicals found under the hood.

The problem - For those of us who own a pre 1991 Vette, we have a problem. The heat under the hood is slowly eating our wiring away. The insulation starts to get brittle and break, causing possible shorts and grounding conditions.

If you are having a problem with your early C4, and all other logical fixes ain't fixing it, get out a test light and a DDM and commense chasing the harness. It sure isn't pretty, but it might be your only fix.

I so can't wait for the aftermarket to make good fitting harnesses for the earlier cars.
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Old Aug 21, 2004 | 08:32 PM
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Thanks Bogus, good info that I for one was not aware of! I guess we all take the wiring for granted in our cars and expect it to be almost indestructable. Thanks for the reminder. It's the simple things that seem to cause so much trouble.
Brad
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Old Aug 21, 2004 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by bogus
...1984 to about 1990.

somewhere about 1990/1, the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) changed the rules regarding the composition of wire insulation.

What this mean is, newer wire is better. It is better able to deal with heat and harsh chemicals found under the hood.

The problem - For those of us who own a pre 1991 Vette, we have a problem. The heat under the hood is slowly eating our wiring away. The insulation starts to get brittle and break, causing possible shorts and grounding conditions.

If you are having a problem with your early C4, and all other logical fixes ain't fixing it, get out a test light and a DDM and commense chasing the harness. It sure isn't pretty, but it might be your only fix.

I so can't wait for the aftermarket to make good fitting harnesses for the earlier cars.

Interesting info to say the least.....On that note, how much does a full wiring harness usually cost??
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Old Aug 21, 2004 | 08:44 PM
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how to test?????
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Old Aug 21, 2004 | 09:04 PM
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This mean for any one with an error code, example, Code 33 (MAF)
make sure you test the wiring before changing any relays or sensors or connectors.

I bought my car with an engine bay fire and we couldn't find a used 88 wire harness so we slowly rebuilt the original one and tested every connection, I've never had an electrical problem since I've owned the car.

I wouldn't worry to much.

Just to let you guys know this regulation was also applied arround the 90's for computer Networking cables they added some type of material to the plastic to slow down the burning process, I can't remember was it was called ( I learned it in college)
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Old Aug 21, 2004 | 10:53 PM
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Having problems with T's car???
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Old Aug 21, 2004 | 11:58 PM
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best wiring was (and still is) cloth wiring... I wonder if its possible to buy that stuff anymore...
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Old Aug 22, 2004 | 04:28 AM
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This is why the insulation shrinks and leaves as much as one inch of bare wire exposed at the crimp ends. A classic of this is the fuel pump relay between the wiper motor and brake booster. Just pull the connector out and inspect the wires.

I found the MAF power relay connector wires were exposed. So an evening was spent inspecting every last connector in the engine compartment, and repairing same.....

-JRC-
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Old Aug 22, 2004 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by comp
how to test?????
Visual inspection, test each wire with an ohm meter, continuity test, etc., etc. Wasn't aware that the aftermarket didn't make at least engine harnesses for these cars since many are made for other popular old cars. Maybe someday, assuredly they won't be cheap!
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Old Aug 23, 2004 | 05:11 PM
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the last I checked, harnesses stop at 1982. Which sucks.

How to determine the problem? Just like you would test a spark plug wire. Bend it. If the insulation breaks, you are in for fun and games.

It's a real bitch...

Wake - there are no specific problems at this time, it's just one of those things I have been meaning to share with the group.
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Old Aug 23, 2004 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
This is why the insulation shrinks and leaves as much as one inch of bare wire exposed at the crimp ends. A classic of this is the fuel pump relay between the wiper motor and brake booster. Just pull the connector out and inspect the wires.

I found the MAF power relay connector wires were exposed. So an evening was spent inspecting every last connector in the engine compartment, and repairing same.....

-JRC-
Been there! My 4+3 OD seemed to have a mind of its own until I found the shrinkage on all the wires at the relay (beside the fuel pump relay)...not only were they shrunk back a good inch, but they were all twisted together. The OD has worked flawlessly since.
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Old Aug 23, 2004 | 05:51 PM
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 01:21 AM
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I asked Mr Mojo to sticky this... with all the bugs people have been encountering with these earlier cars, it seemed like a good idea to advertize it!!!
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 10:04 AM
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I don't know if this will help but I noticed on my 89 this year that the plastic wiring conduit in some areas, like close to the exhaust manifolds, was literally breaking apart due to brittleness. I am in the process of replacing all the wiring conduit in the engine bay over the next few months.

Bob
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 12:57 PM
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This doesn's affect my '94, but someone might want to print this thread and pass it along to Painless Wiring. If there's enough of a market, it might prompt them do to a harness.
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 12:57 PM
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Bogus, do you know if any of the '91 and earlier looms interchange with '92 or greater? I'm pretty sure the engine loom(s) won't, but what about any others under the hood & exposed?
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by redvtt
Bogus, do you know if any of the '91 and earlier looms interchange with '92 or greater? I'm pretty sure the engine loom(s) won't, but what about any others under the hood & exposed?
That's a good question... for which I don't have an answer. The best I would assume, considering the engine changed dramatically between 1991 and 1992 would be no.
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To A warning for early C4 owners...

Old Aug 24, 2004 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by DAVE396LT1
This doesn's affect my '94, but someone might want to print this thread and pass it along to Painless Wiring. If there's enough of a market, it might prompt them do to a harness.
I am scanning their site as I write this.... It appears they make such a beasty under the guise of "FI Harness Kits". Meaning, you have a 65 Chevelle and you want to drop a full L98 in it. Why would that not work on a Vette?

http://www.painlessperformance.com/catlarge/fichart.jpg

They don't publish prices on the page...
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 04:50 PM
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I was reading a Hot Rod mag article last night about dropping an LS1/6 into a '67 Chevelle. It was being done in a GM sponsored lab/plant in Arizona. They were using all off the shelf GM parts for the conversion. They did list factory part numbers for the separate engine loom for this engine install. So I'm asuming GM might have L98 engine looms as well.

I've noticed that any loom that is routed near the exhaust gets brittle. I'm hoping that the 92-96 (rest of the car) front end loom(s) are the same as pre-'92.

My concern is I do smell burning insulation (from wires) once in awhile. I don't want to wait until the car's up in smoke!
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 05:07 PM
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Crap<<<this might be the solution to all me problems. I still cant tell how fast im going. Boy am i glad you guys cought this. i have an 84 with a lot of electrical probs. Thank you ..Thank you..Thank you!!!
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