Removing the flywheel bolts
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa AL
Removing the flywheel bolts
When doing a clutch with the motor still in the car and you need to get the flywheel re-surfaced, how do you keep the motor from spinning when you unscrew the bolts and then torque them back down? There's alot of torque on those bolts.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 10
From: Nashville TN
One option is to have someone hold the crankshaft balancer by hand. Another is to get a special tool that holds the starter teeth. I was able to angle the wrench correctly and hold the flywheel by hand to take it off.
A note though, if this is a 6-speed and has a dual-mass flywheel, you can't get it resurfaced, you have to buy a new one.
A note though, if this is a 6-speed and has a dual-mass flywheel, you can't get it resurfaced, you have to buy a new one.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 927
Likes: 0
From: Saginaw TX
You could also do as I have done in the past. Take a piece of angle iron, measure and drill holes to line up with 2 adjoining clutch cover holes and use that to hold the flywheel. Works good and doesn't abuse the damper bolt. Just has to be long enough to get a hold of or hit the floor and the floor will hold it.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 12,772
Likes: 17
From: Indianapolis IN
I just stick a long thin screwdriver between the FW teeth and the bottom of the block on the passenger side and brake them free, then put the same screwdriver on the driver side to tighten them up, same withi the Pressure plae bolts.
The FW bolts are @ 60 ft/lb and the PP are @ 40 ft/lbs IF I remmeber correctly, some one will correct me if I am wrong, indeed.
The FW bolts are @ 60 ft/lb and the PP are @ 40 ft/lbs IF I remmeber correctly, some one will correct me if I am wrong, indeed.
