Procharger Tuned Results
Welp..My Car is done....I just got off the Phone with Mike at J & M.....I don't know what to say......He said the car runs excellent...He fixed the timing...and added the 42lbs injectors and if you remember my Dyno Graph(see below) It looked like crap..I was making 361/379...Welp now he tells me the car is making 340rwhp!!!!!!WTF!!!!!!!!!!WTF!!!!!!!!!!! !!!WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!...But the Dyno is All smoothed out.....He told me not to go by the Dyno... the car pulls really hard and runs smooth....And that my First Dyno was spiked..i was getting power but then it would drop and then get up again...and drop off.....I don;t really know what to say.....I'm beyond PO'd......$7500 for 80 horsepower.....I'll post the new Dyno Sheet later when i pick up the car today......He was new to the Software and new to editing the Lt1...Can this possible be right? 340rwhp is the best i can get with an ATI PC-S1...why in the world are Stock Camaros and Firebirds making 400 at the wheels with Prochargers...I feel like crying <sigh>
Ideally, you should have gained power or stayed near the same (with an optimal tune).
SKI HELP ME!!!!!!
O and yes i am running the stock fuel pump...
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The part about losing 20 HP is garbage though. Your tuner should have left the settings in that area alone, and tuned other parts of the fuel/spark curve. You couldve had a "smoother" tune AND kep the 20 hp. It sounds like you may need a new tuner.
You said you have a stock pump- does it have the ATI pump also? They include a pump in thier kits that installs inline and boosts pressure. If all you have is a stock pump- thats a problem. If you have the ATI booster pump, its still not the best. The better way is to replace the in tank pump with a 255lph unit, and ditch the booster. Check behind your liscence plate- thats where the directions said to put my booster pump.
If your not running enough fuel pressure you will lose HP. Even worse, is that with larger injectors, low pressure will create a poor spray pattern too. This *could* be part of your problem.
Really though, take it to the track. The only numbers that count are track times. Let us know the ET, MPH, and weather conditons when you go. MPH is the true indicator of HP, and it doesnt lie. Dont worry about tire spin, or reaction time as these have little to no effect on MPH in the quarter.
One last thing- your axle ratio has ZERO effect on your numbers from the dyno.
Last edited by SBNova; Aug 26, 2004 at 08:39 PM.
He say because of your 2.59 gear that is why it don't shown true hp? that is BS I have ever heard. Your 2.59 gear has nothing to do with your hp out put. The reason that the dyno did not hold or show the hp is because I think I know the answere but I 'll let you guy guess it.
Bruce
Oops... Missed Bruce's comments, but now you have two people telling you the same thing.
First off I will say it again, don't get hung up on dyno numbers. Dynos vary (Alot) and should only be used to see changes and gather shift point data.
Second, I just browsed through the posts, mainly yours to gather information, but the gear ratio has nothing to do with the dyno numbers so that is a little stretched.
Third, I would suggest that you go to the track and get some number for your car. Record the MPH your car traps at, and then get cars weight. From those two you can determine very accurately what your putting down in the power department.
Few other things. I tuned a guys pro-charged setup last spring. The car ran excellant and ran 11s first time out with very little traction. One thing about your boost this guy learned and did not know why this happened until I explained to him. He reported on the stock vette heads, with the SC before I tuned it, it ran MUCH more PSI. He then put AFR 190s on the car per my recommondation/SR and the PSI went down. He was concerned when he came for the tuning that something was not working right. I explained that the heads are LESS restrictive, therefore the PSI dropped some. Before the heads were acting as a restrictor, raising the pressure.
Perhaps that is what your seeing. But reading it almost sounded like your getting that much PSI at idle? That is not right.
Few other things I would like to add. Not sure from your signiture what compression your running. But with a SC setup, if your running stock compression, its going to kill the potential for the SC. You should really have your motor setup for about 9-9.5:1 compression n/a, then put on the charger. Your gains would be substantial. When your already at 10.5:1 n/a and you put boost to it, your playing a dangerous game. Which leads me to my next point.
Are you running the knock sensor. That jagged graph is very indicitive of timing fluctuations. Is is possible your getting knock, and its pulling timing? Any datalogs?
Last edited by ski_dwn_it; Aug 27, 2004 at 08:54 AM.
The 10--11psi is coming from flooring from a dead stop..btw..not idle


















