Guys,

Looks like the heater core has finally taken a dump after 15 years of heat.

I was looking for the FastGuy method to replace this, but can't find the post. Does anyone have the FastGuy method documented, or could provide any good tips to do this repair?

Car details in my sig (it does have electric climate control if that makes a difference in the "attack method")

Thanks,

Ron

 

I don't have it documented, but basically, he removes the right seat and leaves the dash cover on. I followed my Helms, and it didn't call to remove the seat, but it DOES have you remove the dash cover. I'm a slow worker, but FastGuy reported WAAAAAY less time then I did. If I EVER have to do THAT again, I'm going straight to the Jeb Burnett method. Have fun, and...

RACE ON!!!

 

Here it is, and yes it can be done this way in 4-5 hours. Of course I fit under under there, if you're a big guy this may prove a little more challenging.

Almost forgot, you might want to pre-buy the little plastic clips that hold the heater door control rod, these will be very brittle and you'll probably break them trying to get them off.

Here's to the author

FASTGUY

Whoever wrote that huge "pull the dash out" article was a friggin' crackhead.

You don't pull the dash, instead, pull the passenger seat.

Pull the hush panel, drop the ECM and the door control module.
Remove the support bar going from the door pillar to the dash.
Use a 7mm to take the cover off the heater box.
Pull the cover, unbolt the core, re-install.
Drink beer and laugh at webpage showing guys pulling dash.

Just did it on my '89 2 weeks ago. I removed the diagonal brace. There are 5 screws on the plastic cover for the core - 2 top, three bottom/sides. There are 3 screws retaining the core itself - 1 top middle & 2 bottom. As said, watch the position of the rod on the motor that opens/closes the door (if you have electronic controls). BTW, I also took out the pad in addition to the lower access panel - 4 nuts & much more room if you have full size American arms & hands. I got the upper screws restarted by placing a bit of tape on them & wedging them into my 7mm socket. It helps to have 1/4" drive flex adapters and every extension length they don't make Total time for me was about 5 hours for the heater core in-and-out. Plus a couple of hours to fix the broken dash frame and to eliminate the breadbox - not necessary, but seems to add a lot of "room" inside & looks way better One more thing - since you're there inspect all wires & the orange vacuum line. I found two damaged wires & a missing heat shield on the courtesy lamp. My new heat shield is two thicknesses of Bud can

 

Guys-- thanks for the advice. Do you have the part numbers for the plastic clips? How many are needed?

Thanks again,

Ron

 

What's the trick on getting the hush panel out? I removed all of the screws and I can't get the panel out. It appears to be hooked in the back but I can't find any screws in that area.

 

There's two, one holding the rod to the door motor and one holding the rod to the door (this is the one that will break, you might get the outer one off in one piece). The rod to door clip is p/n is 20007898 - $4 list, don't have the outer clip p/n.

 

Thanks a lot for all of your help. I will get these clips just in case. Crossing my fingers that the Fastguy method will work for us. :-)

Ron