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I really like the one I got from Sears. It's a breakaway model. Some have a metal pointer that points at a scale. The breakaway one, you set the torque you want on the handle and when it get's to that point it clicks. It doesn't prevent you from continuing to torque the bolt/nut, etc. but at least you don't have to be always looking at the scale. Also, it's tons prettier than the scale model.
From somone who has never used a torque wrench, but now finds all kinds of references to them in the 1985 Service Manual:
What's a good torque wrench to get for working on a C4?
I also have the clicking type and highly recommend that type. In addition, you should have one for each type of value. One for ft. lbs. for larger nuts and bolts such as those used to fasten suspension, drivetrain, braking, engine and steering components. The other should be for in. lbs. for smaller nuts and bolts such as those used to fasten valve covers, timing chain cover, oil pan etc. There might be a wrench with dual settings but I have never seen one. Happy Wrenching!
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Yeah, breakaways and click type torque wrenches are my favorites too. That's what most all of mine are. I like the breakaway for my smaller ones, in. lbs. or up to 40-50 ft. lb. 3/8" drive wrenches and I like my clicker for my larger 1/2" drive wrench. Re/ torques, factory manuals give torque specs for nearly everything. Obviously some, such as critical engine, suspension specs, etc. should be followed closely. Others are given more as a reference to make sure you get something tight enough or don't over tighten it but I doubt anyone actually torques everything for which is spec is given. Experience and common sense will do for many things but when in doubt, get out the torque wrench. Besides, it makes it look like we really know what we're doing!
Last edited by Corvette Kid; Sep 4, 2004 at 03:37 PM.
I really like the one I got from Sears. It's a breakaway model. Some have a metal pointer that points at a scale. The breakaway one, you set the torque you want on the handle and when it get's to that point it clicks. It doesn't prevent you from continuing to torque the bolt/nut, etc. but at least you don't have to be always looking at the scale. Also, it's tons prettier than the scale model.
From somone who has never used a torque wrench, but now finds all kinds of references to them in the 1985 Service Manual:
What's a good torque wrench to get for working on a C4?
Agree with the clickers. Down the road, you might want to also pick up a 3/4" drive that reads up to 250 ft lbs. These come in very handy for torquing down the spindle nut when you have to replace your rear wheel bearings.
Be careful with the Craftsman, they only have a one year warranty and will only last about 4 months.
I bought mine online and the store would not exchange it for me.
The locking collar on the Crafstman will not unlock on mine, so I'm stuck at 100 lb/ft for now, as time goes on, the calibration will be off. I need to get me a new one. This will be the third in the last two years.
Be careful with the Craftsman, they only have a one year warranty and will only last about 4 months.
I bought mine online and the store would not exchange it for me.
The locking collar on the Crafstman will not unlock on mine, so I'm stuck at 100 lb/ft for now, as time goes on, the calibration will be off. I need to get me a new one. This will be the third in the last two years.
Go with Snap-on, it will be the last one you will ever have to buy.
i guess the Craftsmans are hit and miss... i just bought my third type with no problems with my other two. however, it is true with tools that you get what you pay for.
you can also borrow torque wrenches at certain autoparts stores (i've been doing this with Autozone for years). might want to try that first if you are working on a part where it doesn't have to be dead nuts on spec (the calibration on borrowed tools are questionable), and don't think you'll be using it that often in the future.
I have bought a couple torque wrenches online from these guys and have had great service and the tools have been worth the money, its not craftsman but it has been used alot and been very accurate compared to my digital craftsman torque wrench.
Be careful with the Craftsman, they only have a one year warranty and will only last about 4 months.
I used my lightly for about 5 years, then started modding my Vette, came apart within a few months. I'm going to get a Snap-On when I do my heads and cam.
We have a Harbor frieght store in our area. I saw a 150 ft lb torque wrench with case for 12 bucks! I bought it just to use as a breaker bar for tire changes at the track. For kicks I checked it against my friends 350 dollar snap-on. I could not believe it read the same as the snap on at all settings. Quality pos tool in my opinion. I won't use it to assemble an engine but works great for tire changes etc. When it "walks away" at the track I won't feel so bad.
Bought 2 breaker style torque wrenches at Harbor Freight. one in 3/8 drive with inch-lb and one in 1/2 drive in ft-lbs. The bill for the 2 was $29 !!!!
they work and they're accurate.
I have bought a couple torque wrenches online from these guys and have had great service and the tools have been worth the money, its not craftsman but it has been used alot and been very accurate compared to my digital craftsman torque wrench.
I have one of the 1/2" models. It's made by Pittsburgh Tools, and I really like their stuff... I like my Pittsburgh stuff from Harbor Freight better than my Craftsman stuff. One of these days I'll step up to Snap On. Maybe.