Hurst shilter install question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
From: Egg Harbor Twp, NJ NJ
Hurst shilter install question
Thought I would start a new thread since the last discussion about this product had many replies.
Just ordered the hurst billet shifter (391-7084) and the hurst **** to go with it. I downloaded the install instruction sheets from Mr Gasket site.
My question is: If I follow the instructions are there any other problems that may come up during the install?
Just ordered the hurst billet shifter (391-7084) and the hurst **** to go with it. I downloaded the install instruction sheets from Mr Gasket site.
My question is: If I follow the instructions are there any other problems that may come up during the install?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,227
Likes: 50
From: Pomfret, CT
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
Those instructions are pretty good. But, there are always problems that can come up!!! 
It was a long, tedious job.....but not to bad! Well worth the effort though.
-Rick
It was a long, tedious job.....but not to bad! Well worth the effort though.-Rick
Racer
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
From: Loganville Ga
I don't remember if the instructions say to drop the exhaust but it is a good idea to do so. There are those that say it is not necessary but for the 20 minutes it takes, it makes it a hellova lot easier to access the shifter from underneath.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 12,832
Likes: 210
From: Canton GA
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St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'10-'11-'12
Get yourself a long punch, getting the pin out is a chore, putting it back in is even worse!
The lower rubber boot is the biggest pain, it wants to get in your way. Once you cut the tie wraps, take a metal coat hanger, bend it into a hook and wrap that end in tape to avoid tearing the rubber. Hook the rubber boot and using the hanger, pull it back and hook the other end of the hanger around something to help keep it out of your way.
Also, have some 220 grit sand paper on hand to take some of the powder coating off at the pivot point. The shifter is machined very close and the powder coating makes it stick. Oh, and straight from Chris Reinhardt's mouth: Don't use the lube provided, get some white lithium grease and use it.
BTW, Chris is the designer of that shifter. Great guy!
The lower rubber boot is the biggest pain, it wants to get in your way. Once you cut the tie wraps, take a metal coat hanger, bend it into a hook and wrap that end in tape to avoid tearing the rubber. Hook the rubber boot and using the hanger, pull it back and hook the other end of the hanger around something to help keep it out of your way.
Also, have some 220 grit sand paper on hand to take some of the powder coating off at the pivot point. The shifter is machined very close and the powder coating makes it stick. Oh, and straight from Chris Reinhardt's mouth: Don't use the lube provided, get some white lithium grease and use it.
BTW, Chris is the designer of that shifter. Great guy!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,295
Likes: 4
From: I'm the walkin dude I can see all of the world...
St. Jude Donor '03
Originally Posted by ShawnZR-1
Get yourself a long punch, getting the pin out is a chore, putting it back in is even worse!
The lower rubber boot is the biggest pain, it wants to get in your way. Once you cut the tie wraps, take a metal coat hanger, bend it into a hook and wrap that end in tape to avoid tearing the rubber. Hook the rubber boot and using the hanger, pull it back and hook the other end of the hanger around something to help keep it out of your way.
Also, have some 220 grit sand paper on hand to take some of the powder coating off at the pivot point. The shifter is machined very close and the powder coating makes it stick. Oh, and straight from Chris Reinhardt's mouth: Don't use the lube provided, get some white lithium grease and use it.
BTW, Chris is the designer of that shifter. Great guy!
The lower rubber boot is the biggest pain, it wants to get in your way. Once you cut the tie wraps, take a metal coat hanger, bend it into a hook and wrap that end in tape to avoid tearing the rubber. Hook the rubber boot and using the hanger, pull it back and hook the other end of the hanger around something to help keep it out of your way.
Also, have some 220 grit sand paper on hand to take some of the powder coating off at the pivot point. The shifter is machined very close and the powder coating makes it stick. Oh, and straight from Chris Reinhardt's mouth: Don't use the lube provided, get some white lithium grease and use it.
BTW, Chris is the designer of that shifter. Great guy!
This is excellent advise. The boot getting in the way is the worst part. Other than that it is pretty easy.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
From: Egg Harbor Twp, NJ NJ
Just received the billet shifter kit and I was wondering if anyone knew how much shorter the new stick is compared to the stock?
I haven't started the installation yet but the billet shifter doesn't look to be very short.
I haven't started the installation yet but the billet shifter doesn't look to be very short.
Elite Torch Red Member
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
Cental/South NJ Events Coordinator
CI 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12 Vet
CI-II Burnout & Drag Champ
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07
It's only supposed to be 30% shorter, but who needs a short shifter? Don't believe the hype.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
From: Egg Harbor Twp, NJ NJ
Just received the billet shifter kit and I was wondering if anyone knew how much shorter the new stick is compared to the stock?
I haven't started the installation yet but the billet shifter doesn't look to be very short.
I haven't started the installation yet but the billet shifter doesn't look to be very short.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 11,672
Likes: 20
From: Lake Wylie SC
When I installed mine, the upper boot was hard to re install just because it was hard to get at. I also had to replace the lower boot as mine was ripped from the previous owner's mechanic. I also had my trusty Helms Service Manual for reference. This is the most enjoyable mod I've done to my Vette. Enjoy the results.
This would also be a good time to swap out your fuel filter.
This would also be a good time to swap out your fuel filter.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,375
Likes: 1
From: Northern CA
Originally Posted by redgb
Just received the billet shifter kit and I was wondering if anyone knew how much shorter the new stick is compared to the stock?
Going from memory, the **** ends up just over an inch lower. The shift throw (how far you move you hand to shift) is shortened by 30%, not the lever.
The lever is actually longer below the pivot point and that is what does most of the 30% improvement.
A real nice feature is that the new lever eliminates th erubber in the stock lever so you get a better feel of what is going on.
When you have both levers out and side by side, take a good look at them. The factory lever is actually more expensive to build. Chevy could have given us Hurst shifter performance right out of the facctory and shaved ~37 cents of the cost of building the lever at the same time.
