383 or bigger?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,830
Likes: 1
From: atlanta Georgia
383 or bigger?
Could someone please explain what a 383 stroker is?
I know you take a 350 and bore it over .30 in all the cylinders and get a new crank but is that it?
What would be better 396 or 383 (obviously the 396 more power) but doesnt it make for a thinner cylinder wall thus making in not as good? are their ways to strengthen the walls?
would I need a new radiator?
new cam?
new fuel pump?
injectors?
ok finally about how much are we looking at if i did it myself and what would hp be like.
I have a 96 auto lt1
52mm bbk tb
muffler elims
hedman full length headers
open air box
k an N filter
thank you so damn much!!!!
Sean
I know you take a 350 and bore it over .30 in all the cylinders and get a new crank but is that it?
What would be better 396 or 383 (obviously the 396 more power) but doesnt it make for a thinner cylinder wall thus making in not as good? are their ways to strengthen the walls?
would I need a new radiator?
new cam?
new fuel pump?
injectors?
ok finally about how much are we looking at if i did it myself and what would hp be like.
I have a 96 auto lt1
52mm bbk tb
muffler elims
hedman full length headers
open air box
k an N filter
thank you so damn much!!!!
Sean
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,655
Likes: 24
From: Charleston SC
Ok the 383 and 396 use the same bore 4.030 it is the stroke of the crank that differs. The 383 uses a 3.75 and the 396 uses a 3.875'' stroke.
As to what is better it is a matter of preference but most do like the bigger displacement (I went with the 383 though)
Cost would depend on what you where trying to acomplish and who was doing the work. A mild 383 shortblock can be had for around 3k (cast crank I beam rods and hyperutectic pistons)
I will have about 6K in mine but that includes new AFR comp 190 heads, Custom ground Comp Cam, forged Scat crank, H beam rods, SRP pistons, Splayed mains, Fidensa Flywheel and clutch set up, 36# injectors, new R/Rs and and all the other junk and machine work. I am assembiling the motor my self and will also drop it in when the time comes. My set up is not over the top just to give you some idea of the $$$ that can be involved More wants over 10K for one of there 396 motors http://www.moreperformanceinc.com/
As to what is better it is a matter of preference but most do like the bigger displacement (I went with the 383 though)
Cost would depend on what you where trying to acomplish and who was doing the work. A mild 383 shortblock can be had for around 3k (cast crank I beam rods and hyperutectic pistons)
I will have about 6K in mine but that includes new AFR comp 190 heads, Custom ground Comp Cam, forged Scat crank, H beam rods, SRP pistons, Splayed mains, Fidensa Flywheel and clutch set up, 36# injectors, new R/Rs and and all the other junk and machine work. I am assembiling the motor my self and will also drop it in when the time comes. My set up is not over the top just to give you some idea of the $$$ that can be involved More wants over 10K for one of there 396 motors http://www.moreperformanceinc.com/
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,595
Likes: 1
From: Thornton CO
383 is bored over .30 just like you said and then has basically a crankshaft from a 400 it which lengthens the stroke. You will need to clearance the block a little (so the rods don't hit the edges). You'll need new rods, bearings, pistons, freeze plugs, a new cam, Roller Rockers (good upgrade) and some computer tuning.
You can probably get the rotating assembly and machine work done for about $2k - 2,500. I paid $2,000 for the rotating assembly (with forged pistons) and machine work (from a friend) and then $400 to have him do a quick port & polish on the heads and another $1,000 for cam, lifters, springs, software, etc.
You can probably get the rotating assembly and machine work done for about $2k - 2,500. I paid $2,000 for the rotating assembly (with forged pistons) and machine work (from a friend) and then $400 to have him do a quick port & polish on the heads and another $1,000 for cam, lifters, springs, software, etc.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,270
Likes: 3
From: Seattle Area WA
I don't have time to answer this, but basically I will just say this:
383 stroker=cheap
396=$$$
Now it can go either way truly, but there are a lot of cheap stroker kits out there for a 383, most 396s I have seen are more race oriented and thus more $$$. It is called a stroker because by changing the crankshaft (aftermarket or modified 400 crank) you effectively change the stroke length of the piston.
You could probably build your motor REALISTICLY for around 4000-5000$.
Now you can build one for 1500 or for 10000. And I know it sucks to hear this, but you will soon realize all the small things add up. Machine work, gaskets, bolts...everything. And before you know it, you will be wishing you went crate
All this of course varies on experience building motors, but I would just to be on the safe side, add AT least one thousands dollars to whatever total you calculate, and be ready to pay that.
383 stroker=cheap
396=$$$
Now it can go either way truly, but there are a lot of cheap stroker kits out there for a 383, most 396s I have seen are more race oriented and thus more $$$. It is called a stroker because by changing the crankshaft (aftermarket or modified 400 crank) you effectively change the stroke length of the piston.
You could probably build your motor REALISTICLY for around 4000-5000$.
Now you can build one for 1500 or for 10000. And I know it sucks to hear this, but you will soon realize all the small things add up. Machine work, gaskets, bolts...everything. And before you know it, you will be wishing you went crate
All this of course varies on experience building motors, but I would just to be on the safe side, add AT least one thousands dollars to whatever total you calculate, and be ready to pay that.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,595
Likes: 1
From: Thornton CO
You might be able to pick something up from Summit or Jegs. Also try http://speeddemonmotorsports.com Chris there is a pretty good guy and can probably get you hooked up!
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,126
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From: Cleveland OH
Originally Posted by FD2BLK
More wants over 10K for one of there 396 motors http://www.moreperformanceinc.com/
Ron
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 914
Likes: 1
From: Redding Ca
A 383" is a pretty well sorted out combination and can make anything from moderate power to lots of it depending on the components. I suggest you decide how much power you want (You've done this: 400rwhp) and work backwards to what will produce that. You are talking a pretty healthy any size motor to put out 400 rwhp. You are probably looking at around $10,000 no matter what cubic inches. Smog compliance might be an issue as well. This can change a lot of plans besides just the power "side" of the equation. Try to configure the entire package before you turn the first bolt. It will save you from a lot of errors and misspent $$
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 9
From: N.E. WA
Originally Posted by redbullapril23
I'm trying to get to 425 rwhp, is that possible?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
I've got a 393 in mine(3.85 crank I believe) One thing that I would suggest would be get some HUGE AFR heads to go with it. I've got some stock ported heads and I have 350 rwhp and I run a best of 12.05 @113mph. I've seen some others with close to the same setup put down 50 more rwhp or so with better heads. They are definately worth the extra cash.
The heads are what hive you the HP if you want torque thats where the stroker comes into play. There are some stock bottom end cars that make more horsepower than I do because of the heads and cam, but they can't touch my low and midrange torque. The key is to get both!!
The heads are what hive you the HP if you want torque thats where the stroker comes into play. There are some stock bottom end cars that make more horsepower than I do because of the heads and cam, but they can't touch my low and midrange torque. The key is to get both!!
Last edited by mn_vette; Sep 16, 2004 at 04:39 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,595
Likes: 1
From: Thornton CO
Originally Posted by mn_vette
The heads are what hive you the HP if you want torque thats where the stroker comes into play. There are some stock bottom end cars that make more horsepower than I do because of the heads and cam, but they can't touch my low and midrange torque. The key is to get both!!
Mine is the same way - on the dyno my peak Torque is 368lb/ft at 3,200 (that's where the dyno starts) and it doesn't drop below 350lb/ft until 5,200 rpm and at 6,000 rpm I'm still at over 300lb/ft.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,830
Likes: 1
From: atlanta Georgia
ok for you 383, 396 393 guys
are you running stock fuel pump?
stock radiator?
rear end?
So youre saying dont go with the pocket ported heads go with new heads?
I keep hearing heads heads heads.
Ok
What type of heads can i get that would work good for my stock engine and then with the stocker too? $?
thanks agian
Sean
are you running stock fuel pump?
stock radiator?
rear end?
So youre saying dont go with the pocket ported heads go with new heads?
I keep hearing heads heads heads.
Ok
What type of heads can i get that would work good for my stock engine and then with the stocker too? $?
thanks agian
Sean
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,595
Likes: 1
From: Thornton CO
Stock fuel pump, stock radiator, stock rear-end. Heads all depend on how much $$$ you want to spend! You can get some AFR heads or you can get your's ported and polished by a proven company or you can do a core charge set, etc. I think More performance has good heads. GTP Racing has good heads but you have to double and triple check the springs they give you (heard about lots of problems with them putting in the wrong springs). Lingenfelter heads, Agostino Racing, etc. - there are lots of companies to choose from!
Drifting
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,337
Likes: 0
From: Brighton, MI
Check my sig for my 383 setup. I'm at 390 hp, a little short of your 400, but I could probably pick up the extra 10 hp with a good catback system. Just haven't bit the bullet yet. I haven't had the car at the track, but I'm hoping to squeak a high 11 with drag radials at the end of the month.
EDIT: HP numbers are all relative I guess though. I could just find a DynoJet rather than a Mustang Dyno and have 400.
EDIT: HP numbers are all relative I guess though. I could just find a DynoJet rather than a Mustang Dyno and have 400.
Last edited by 93Quasar; Sep 16, 2004 at 05:01 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,655
Likes: 24
From: Charleston SC
Originally Posted by redbullapril23
Kool thanks
So i'm thinkin 383
does any place sell a 383 kit say pistons crank pushrods...etc, that is worth a damn?
thanks alot Sean
So i'm thinkin 383
does any place sell a 383 kit say pistons crank pushrods...etc, that is worth a damn?
thanks alot Sean
I built my set up to produce over 400RWHP and am hoping to be at the 425 you asked about. I think the thing you need to look at is heads. The bottom end is what it is but cam selection and head flow are what will realy determine your HP #s (For about the price of porting you can get CNCed AFR heads)
almost forgot be prepared to wait 8 weeks for AFR heads.