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Currently I ahve a D36. If I swap, AFAIK, I need the DS, D44 unit and the "C" beam. What I gathered is that the "C" beam is pretty standard and the DS is too. There are some rumblings that certain years are better for the D44 or is that a rumour? IE, would it matter that it was an 85 when my car is a 91? TIA
Currently I ahve a D36. If I swap, AFAIK, I need the DS, D44 unit and the "C" beam. What I gathered is that the "C" beam is pretty standard and the DS is too. There are some rumblings that certain years are better for the D44 or is that a rumour? IE, would it matter that it was an 85 when my car is a 91? TIA
Im in the middle of the swap right now. The swap time will dependi on if you feel like replacing the rear suspension bushings since you are mostly there anyways. Im doing the swap along with replacing all the U-joints and bushings.
Id say as long as nothing unexpected pops up on you while doing the replacement, you should be ableto complete it in a single weekend (if you are not replacing bushings). I found 2 bent dog bones, ordered the wrong strut rod bushings, and a busted ABS sensor.
Im not sure how much value the old stuff will have, but I'd say your best bet is Ebay. Ive only rarely seen people post a WTB for a D36 here.
I will be having a mechanic do it for me since I don't have all the proper support stuff and spring tensioners. Which ones are the "dog bones"? and what bushings will need to be changed and whose do you recommend?
I will be having a mechanic do it for me since I don't have all the proper support stuff and spring tensioners. Which ones are the "dog bones"? and what bushings will need to be changed and whose do you recommend?
The "dog bones" are the upper and lower, knuckle, control rods. Generally, they don't bend, and they can be re bushed if needed. The operation does not require any bushing replacement, but since you're in there, it pays to inspect and replace as necessary. Because the labor to change the bushings is pretty much the same as the diff R&R, many people take the opportunity to change to some sort of poly bushings at the same time.
There are no "spring tensioners" or any similar device needed for this job. A floor jack and a pair of jack stands will cost less than the labor on this job. This is a great do it yourself project. Besides, when you're done, you'll still have the jack and jack stands.
Ive got mine on jack stands right now. Only thing I had to buy that I didnt expect was a second floor jack. I needed one to support the tranny once it was unbolted to the C-beam and one to support the Carrier while I slid it out from under the car.
The only timethe swap required 2 people was when the C-beam, drive shaft, and carrier was ready to come out and be put back in. Helps to have one person guide the drive shaft and C-beam.
I believe the dog bones were bent due to the previous owner curbing the passenger side of the car.
All you need is a floor jack to release the tension from the rear spring. No special tool is needed.
You dont have to replace the bushings, but I did regardless of the condition they were in since everything was essentially apart at the time. Plus, 18 year old factory rubber bushings.... well ... you get the idea.
If you do decide to do this yourself, feel free to email or PM me. Since Im in the process od doing this, most of the process is pretty fresh in my head.
Here is a Tech Tip that was written up by ski_dwn_it for the swap