1986 idle much better when checking (not changing) the timing. Why?
I know on my Supra I-6 I can remove the spark plug and put a dowel in the spark plug hole to make sure that the piston is at TDC. Is there a certain precedure or distance I should be looking to measure in the cylinder to confirm TDC and therefore the timing mark position on the L98?
Thanks!
Jake, I believe, has a method to do this with a dial back timing light, but he never answered my questions as to how it works. Therefore, this is the only method *I* am aware if without disassembling the engine. Maybe he'll chime on here.
RACE ON!!!
I backed the timing from 8 degrees to 6 degrees, and it had a strange effect. When the motor is warm, it is just like before : 900RPM in gear, 12-1300 RPM in neutral. When the motor is started cold the idle will start at 700RPM and be pretty smooth. In gear it will be about 600RPM and also pretty smooth. As the car warms up the idle will climb to the previously mentioned levels. I moved the idle Thursday night and it has consistantly had these characteristics since then. I don't expect any answers on this one(since I haven't finished all your other suggestions yet), I just thought I would let you know the latest.
Thanks!
Another book can't hurt, but the factory manual HAS all the info you need. Plus it has the trouble shooting charts you need to track down the source of a problem. Go for the codes, and verify that timing mark.
We appreciate the up date.
RACE ON!!!
I backed the timing from 8 degrees to 6 degrees, and it had a strange effect. When the motor is warm, it is just like before : 900RPM in gear, 12-1300 RPM in neutral. When the motor is started cold the idle will start at 700RPM and be pretty smooth. In gear it will be about 600RPM and also pretty smooth. As the car warms up the idle will climb to the previously mentioned levels. I moved the idle Thursday night and it has consistantly had these characteristics since then. I don't expect any answers on this one(since I haven't finished all your other suggestions yet), I just thought I would let you know the latest.
Thanks!
Jake
I got the throttle body parts in, and the books. I took the throttle body top plate off and it was very clean, so I grabbed the new gasket and put it back together. I then tried to take off the bottom plate, but a screw head broke off from corrosion, so I put that back together. Next, I decided to check the base idle speed. I used a digital timing light with an RPM readout. The base idle was 670-680RPM. I pryed the cover plate off the ajdustment screw and set the base idle to 450RPM. I set everything back to normal and then purged the radiator of air bubbles and the RPM stayed at 700RPM. I took it for a test run tonight, and it reads 6-700RPM in gear and 700-800RPM in neutral, but if you give it a minute in neutral it will fall beck to 700RPM and stay there. Hopefully this will stay the way it currently is because I can live with it as it is now. It also seems smoother than it was before.
Thanks for all your help. It has been a learning experience, and I am happy I haven't had to pay anyone else to get this far!









