I'm gettin ready to change the carrier unit in my vette (90 auto) and was wondering if I could get away with not having to remove the rear spring or the tie rod assy. to do this? I'm hoping to take off as little as possible to do this swap. Are there any shortcuts or problems i'm going to run into? THANKS FOR THE HELP

 

Just got done doing this today in fact to put in my differential carrier bushings and new u-joints. To take the carrier down you've got your work cut out for you but it isn't that hard. Jack that car up as high AND safe as you can get it! Safe being the main theme! Remove your exhaust and then the spare tire. Depending on what kind of exhaust you have will make a huge difference in the time it takes to get it back together. I have true dual exhaust with no cats and headers so mine was a breeze to pull down and put back up. Place a jack under each side of the fiberglass spring(use some 2x4's) and remove the spring retainer bolts and lower the spring(slowly, there is a lot of pressure there). Keep an eye on the thread count of those long bolts so as to get the ride height back to the way it was. Remove the 4 bolts and spring mounts holding the spring in place, undo the castle nuts to the toe rods and use a two arm puller to loosen them from the hub. Remove the camber rods with the full assembly at the carrier(two bolts on each side of the lower carrier holding them and the bracket in place). This keeps your alignment in check and you won't have to get a new rear end alignment. Next you'll have to remove the half shafts(another reason the toe rods have to be removed from the hub so you can push/pull the wheel out to get the half shafts from their cozy little home). Place a jack under the carrier and then remove the 2 bolts holding the carrier in place. Should come right out, assuming of course you unbolted the c-beam and slid the drive shaft to the passenger side of the vehicle. Excellent time to take a few extra steps and put in new u-joints and clean all that hidden aluminum. Hope this helps. Just going by what worked on my car.

 

Does the C Beam slide out with the parking brake cable in place?

 

I can't ever seem to get it out without releasing the parking brake cable.


To do this you'd have to leave the batwing cover in place. I can't imagine how to re-install the actual diff to the batwing cover while the cover is on the car. The seal is critical, no gasket, lots-o-bolts.

Eric

 

The service manual refers to some sealant where the differential connects to the C beam I think, if I remember reading right. What is used here and what is the purpose?

 

I have taken my c-beam out at least 5 times and never used a sealant.

The spring will need to come off, not a big deal.

The rear toe adjustment arm will need to be unbolted at their 3 point location, but do not need to be removed completely.

I highly suggest that you look at my tech writeup in the tech section on replacing the D36=>D44. It will outline much of what you need to do.



https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=218&TopicID=2