Brake Booster question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham AL
Brake Booster question
I've read all of the archives and they are a great help. I purchased a new brake booster and am in the process of removing the old one.
My question is .... everyone says just move the master cylinder out of the way. I've got the frame on the left side, the ASR on the front side, and the booster on the back side of the master cylinder. My assumption is tilt the master cylinder to the right side. Since the brake lines are still attached, I don't want to mess up here.
If you have successfully done this job please let me know if I'm going in the right direction with my assumptions.
BTW, what kind of connection is there from the brake lever to the booster rod. Just put my hand under there for now but it feels like some kind of clip.
In the meantime I've got to find out how to invert my 6'7" frame and get underneath the dash.
Thanks as always ... Jim
My question is .... everyone says just move the master cylinder out of the way. I've got the frame on the left side, the ASR on the front side, and the booster on the back side of the master cylinder. My assumption is tilt the master cylinder to the right side. Since the brake lines are still attached, I don't want to mess up here.
If you have successfully done this job please let me know if I'm going in the right direction with my assumptions.
BTW, what kind of connection is there from the brake lever to the booster rod. Just put my hand under there for now but it feels like some kind of clip.
In the meantime I've got to find out how to invert my 6'7" frame and get underneath the dash.
Thanks as always ... Jim
Drifting
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,502
Likes: 12
From: Yorktown Heights NY
Just successfully completed my fourth booster replacement in as many years 
The MC should be positioned forward and towards the engine (just move it where you want it and the brake lines will bend/give to allow movement...be firm, but not agressive) to allow the booster to be brought forward, up, and out of the vehicle.
There is a retainer clip, then a foam bushing which fits over the brake pedal operating arm pin that fits into the hole in the booster actuating rod.
BTW, once the old booster is out, insert a tapered steel drift rod from the engine side to make sure the fiberglass firewall is aligned with the steel backing bracket on the passenger compartment side or you may have a problem inserting the two booster studs through the holes in the firewall.
Also, use a 3/8" universal and 13MM (I think) socket to get to the two passenger compartment nuts.
I use masking tape to hold the nut in the socket and also wrp the 3/8" universal twice with it to make it more stiff and then easy to direct the nut onto the booster studs while becoming a contortionist under the dashboard.
If you have any further questions I'll be glad to respond...good luck
The MC should be positioned forward and towards the engine (just move it where you want it and the brake lines will bend/give to allow movement...be firm, but not agressive) to allow the booster to be brought forward, up, and out of the vehicle.
There is a retainer clip, then a foam bushing which fits over the brake pedal operating arm pin that fits into the hole in the booster actuating rod.
BTW, once the old booster is out, insert a tapered steel drift rod from the engine side to make sure the fiberglass firewall is aligned with the steel backing bracket on the passenger compartment side or you may have a problem inserting the two booster studs through the holes in the firewall.
Also, use a 3/8" universal and 13MM (I think) socket to get to the two passenger compartment nuts.
I use masking tape to hold the nut in the socket and also wrp the 3/8" universal twice with it to make it more stiff and then easy to direct the nut onto the booster studs while becoming a contortionist under the dashboard.
If you have any further questions I'll be glad to respond...good luck
